Paris Fashion Week

Stop. Pause. Record. Fast Forward. Rewind.

As 2010 continues to unfold (and prove to be busy as hell) I find myself making appointments and working night and day. It is hard to keep up with the schizophrenia; one moment the day moves like molasses, and the other it flashes so fast that fashion week is over. Here is a quick recap of my favorite looks from Paris. Some highlights: prints, blazers, shorts, sandals, waistlines, drawstrings, and BAGS.





The city of lights has me enlightened. The cold weather continues to plague San Francisco and I wish every night for a day that I can wear shorts. But of course, the sun came back for SF Pride, as the gays would never allow a parade without topless men. Sale season continues and my closet continues to grow. TRUST. So I apologize for neglecting you, blog, but I promise to fill you with stories, news, and some new inventory soon.

P.S. I got glasses :)


- jerome

MFW Round Off

SHEER. PRINT. ETHNIC. SHIRT. SANDAL.

The volume of shirting in my closet has grown exponentially within the past 6 months. It seems that my taste has turned toward a good collar and barrel cuff, leaving the straps and draped neck lines of my recent past behind. It has been interesting mixing the new with the old, but there are endless layering possibilities. This is why I love these collections. Sheer tuxedo shirts and tunics atop over-seized tops. And a special applause to Sarah Burton for doing Alexander McQueen justice. What a smart mix of relaxed and fitted, modern and classic clothing. And my search for the perfect ethnic prints continues. And excuse me, Mr. D’Amato? Who told you short shorts and billowing outerwear looked awesome together? Can I high five them??


Next stop, Paris. J'Adore.


- jerome

Color Block Tango

Milan Fashion Week has come to a close. One of my favorite trends that has emerged for Spring 2011 is color blocking. Raf did wonders for Jil Sander, and the following shows struck major chords with me too.

The whole reason I got into Giuliano Fujiwara was my obsession with his open-toe boots. Little did I know the style, and so much more with embellished gladiator sandals, would be a full-fledged trend - but that is another post. Check out the use of color, shape, and texture in this collection. I like the geometry of these designs, as well as the variety. Here is a collection that delivers pants, shorts, tops, boots, shoes, sandals, and more in colorways that coordinate. Bravo.

Marni makes magic with simple shapes that are classic yet incredibly modern thanks to the clever use of color. This neo-preppy style really speaks to my current wardrobe mood. Add some leather goods and gladiators and you have some serious summer style.

There is not much to say about this collection, other than it is a home run with me. Basic, logo-less, cropped, and colored looks are the stuff dreams are made of. Thank you, Marc Jacobs :)

- jerome

Who Wears Short Shorts?

More from Milan. I am a bit underwhelmed with this season, to be honest. There are definitely certain moments in the Spring shows I am loving but not too many collections have me swooning. Luckily people aesthetic geniuses like Miuccia exist.

Every season, I anxiously await to see what Miuccia Prada has envisioned for menswear. Much like a Magic Eye, her designs may take a while to see but with time and determination you're rewarded with a bigger picture. For Spring, Prada salutes the everyday working man. Utilitarian fabrics give life to new, simple silhouettes and are refreshed with a smart use of color and fashion forward accessories - a house staple. In a world bound by skinny pants, Miuccia embellishes on the idea to reveal a unique vision that is practical and reminiscent of uniforms. Notice the proportions and the shape the shorts create. Also, I find the layers and textures are interesting.

I am always in love the Bottega Venetta's colors. Herr Tomas Maier uses a romantic pallet of deep jewel tones and nudes to create a light and wearable collection. This is clothing that focuses on movement and utility, all for the seemingly "Transcontinental" man. And as always, the accessories are divine. The rolled up shorts are still masculine, and perfect for spring when paired with the outerwear.


Um, yeah, about that... WTF? Is it me or is this collection a bit strange for Emporio Armani? I felt the brand become edgier over time through color and tailoring, but never with cuts like this. All I can really see is more influence from the dark designers... This is like Gareth, Raf, Rick, and Ricardo for people with muscles. Seriously now, notice the print, the cut, the lapel and the leggings!


More to come. And since I didn't say it before -

RIP TOM NICON


- jerome

Aruba, Jamaica, Ooh I Wanna Take Ya to...

Bermuda, Bahama, Come on PRETTY MAMA!

Vintage Palm Print Shirt by Magnum 357, Denim by Levi's, Zori Sandals from Japan

EVERYBODY!! No? Beach Boys? I thought it would be a good time for a Kokomo moment, but IT'S PARTLY CLOUDY AND 53ºF IN THE MIDDLE OF JUNE. But I continue to dream about wearing stuff like this. I found the Magnum shirt at a thrift store here in San Francisco. For whatever reason it reminds me of Margiela. I like the print and simple colors, and really thin vintage shirts are hard to pass up on. Also, these Zori Sandals that I picked up in Tokyo are surprisingly easy to walk in. ETHNIC SUMMER 2010!!


- jerome

Men and Milano

Pitti Uomo is now in full swing and the Spring 2011 Menswear shows have begun. There is a special place in my heart for Milano that always aches this time of year; I spent a lot of time in that city in the past, but now I guess I have to pull my hair out from the intense jealousy of live vicariously through top tier bloggers tweeting from the front row. Here are some highlights thus far.

Jil Sander was the first show that I saw from this season. Between work and family engagements I was worried that I would not have time to keep up, but thank goodness I underestimated how far modern technology and the daily commute could take me. Raf Simons' designs sound off spring with a smart use of color and print. See how the color plays an important role in proportion. This is a collection that allows the body conscious to wear print and color again! And yeah, yeah, "Florals? For Spring? GROUND BREAKING." I know, but the fluorescent all-over print and blown up petals are a fresh take on the cliché. Bravo for another great use of bold graphics!

There isn't too much that I would wear from SS2011 Versace, but Donatella delivered a group of rockabilly boys that stripped down to their birthday suits before our very eyes. That may not be so uncommon for the house of Versace, but I was not prepared to see Jethro Cave in a Speedo - I'm not sure how I feel about that yet. This was NOT the show to turn around Versace's fiscal woes but the fringe, suits, and pointed shoes might be a step in the right direction toward clothing for men who don't peacock.

Christopher Bailey's genius lies in his ability to infuse fashion forward designs with Burberry's English heritage. Season after season, the Burberry Prorsum shows have been a delightful parade of knights, aviators, and military men. The spring show streamed this morning and I was surprised to see a new inspiration: Punk. Well... technically it was "Biker" but the leathers, studs, and chains are reminiscent of British punk, which is arguably a large piece of English culture. This was a courageous and unexpected direction that Bailey went with in menswear but looking at individual pieces I don't think it was the most original. The leathers and color palette were annoyingly similar to Hedi Slimane's collection for Dior Homme SS2007. Perhaps the neutrals and earth tones were a safe move after the daring pastels seen in the previous year. The perforated tops and plunging necklines remind me of Prada last spring. I thought the similarities ended there, but then I saw Givenchy in the gladiator sandals and Balmain in the biker pants. And studs? Again?? Don't get me wrong, I adore the sandals amongst other things from this show, and will probably be fighting tooth and nail to obtain them. Thanks to Burberry's "Runway to Reality" initiative, instant gratification is actually possible. I am not accusing any sort of copying or influence, either. There are obvious parallels here that catch my attention, but when combined, they create a wonderfully sound look for spring. It was a solid collection with exquisite accessories, superb styling, and a marvelous example of Bailey's ability to mix the past and present. I have seen and worn it before, yes, but I will also buy and wear it again!! Here is to another year of gladiator sandals, leather jackets, and studs trenches!!


- jerome

Spring Has Sprung

Shirt by Alexander McQueen, Shorts by Shipley and Halmos, Sneaker Sandals by Juun.J

ONE DAY, SAN FRANCISCO WILL SEE ITS SPRING/SUMMER AND I WILL NO LONGER SUFFER IN THE COLD TO TAKE A PICTURE IN SHORTS AND SANDALS.


- jerome

Weather Men

Trench Coat by Burberry Prorsum, Confetti Shirt by TOPMAN, Khakis by J.Crew, Shoes by Zara

WTF IS GOING ON WITH THIS GODDAMN WEATHER. The on-again-off-again, hot and cold climate of San Francisco has my allergies going crazy and my mood swinging like a 1970's married couple. I suppose the one redeeming aspect of this Narnian like super-winter is an excuse to buy more trench coats. Thanks to Summer sales I am getting my Autumn on with this trench from Burberry Prorsum. It is a special coat that fits like a glove and holds its shape while draping beautifully. The high collar acts like a shield and adds to the "film noir" quality of the piece. The gentle navy was a great contrast to the pastels from this collection; add that to the fact that it is unlined and this trench is wearable with many colors across all seasons. WIN.

Also, Pitti Uomo has started in Milan. Bloggers have been all over it, tweeting and typing about the shows as they happen. I will try to do my part and report on my favorites when I can. Make sure to check out all the street fashion coverage during men's fashion week. I always feel validated when I am in tune with the well-dressed Milanese. Tailored outerwear, rolled cuffs, loafers, bags and color? EPIC WIN.


- jerome

Time Out

I apologize for my lack of updates. It has been a busy week, and my allergies are killer. Be back soon!!

- jerome

Faux Real

OMG DIY LV!!

Vintage Shades, Shirt and Shoes by Virgin Blak, Khakis by J.Crew, Bag by Louis Vuitton, DIY Foxtail

I am not one to accept unavailability. Of course, there are limitations to all of our desires but one should never quit because a runway piece never made it into production. Take for example the Louis Vuitton Red Fox Tail. It was never made available to the public and since I do not know anyone who can score me one of the samples (YET ha!), I had to make my own. The trickiest part about this Do It Yourself project was sourcing the hardware. LV is literally unmatched in the quality of their designs, so finding an end cap large enough to imitate the original was a challenge. Finally, I realized that using hardware that was invisible yet functional was the best way to keep the integrity of the original concept behind the collection. This golden claw is hidden underneath the end of the fur which has been sewn over the hardware. It can then be attached to one of the authentic bag charms or used separately. I can use it on bags or belt loops. Not bad for knocking off Marc Jacobs, no??


Speaking of knock-offs, what are your feelings on buying knock-off clothing? Availability and price can both be barriers when you want the look, so buying a well-made knock off seems like a viable option to many who don't live in fashion capitals and those who won't give up dinner to save money for shoes. I read an article a while back that more and more affluent women are buying counterfeit goods because there is no point in owning the real thing when everyone assumes your entire wardrobe is authentic. I would never buy counterfeit goods because I DO NOT SUPPORT TERRORISM AND I AM ALLERGIC TO FAKE PURSES but I definitely have bought knock-off clothing; I think we all do especially if you have ever shopped at TOPSHOP or H&M. It is my personal opinion that if you can pull it off you should show it off... without getting caught. Don't try to pass your clone off as real but always exhibit the "Don't ask, Don't tell" policy, just like when you shop at any fast fashion retailer. Capisce?




SIDE BAR: Am I the only one who eats watermelon like this?



- jerome

Something Old, Something New

Nothing borrowed, and something blue. I'm blushing. Here is a mixture of old and new favorites from my wardrobe.
Sunburst Jacket by threeAsFour, Mesh Tank by Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane, Khakis by J.Crew, Sneaker Sandals by Juun.J, Bag by Louis Vuitton
I get a feeling of victory every time I wear clothing I was supposed to "regret buying." It is triumph over the "You're never going to wear that" and "You don't need it" bullshiz we all get when obsession over fashion pieces. I usually reply "Actually, YOU aren't going to wear it because YOU COULDN'T wear it." Sure it cost me a lot, but I don't come to your house and say you wasted money on all those cars/video games/other crap that doesn't make sense to me either so STFU it makes me happy.

Speaking of the newest way to go broke, it was revealed today that the online purveyor of forward designer fashion Net-A-Porter.com will be launching Mr. Porter. The menswear website will carry staples like Yves Saint Laurent and Burberry (fingers crossed for Prorsum), as well as new cult favorites like Balmain and Rick Owens. What is the opposite of ballin' out of control??


In other news, my parents are obsessed with my Burberry sheep. They need a dog. I think the sheep are the perfect pets for me right now, seeing as there are all these handbags, shoes, and leather goods lying around like chew toys. I am allergic to cats, so I want a puppy... but no, no, I am happy with my sheep.


- jerome

Bring Your Whole Crew

I AM INSPIRED BY MY FRIENDS.
There is a feeling of security and pride when I walk with a group of my friends and/or family. This resonates in a few editorials I have been seeing lately. These shots have an element of comic book pin-up and boy band heroism, but I like how easy it is to make up stories about the homos homies in each shot.


All photos from The Fashionisto


- jerome

Birthday Loot pt. 2

BACK IN BLACK
Leather by Codes Combine, Checkerboard Tank by Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane, Denim by J.Crew, Bag by Burberry, Sneaker Sandals by Juun.J
Here are two more pieces that I acquired during birthday shopping. I am super excited for this Burberry Baby Burnished Bag. The beautiful leather, convenient cross-body strap, and mini size make it the sweetest camera bag in the world. Long have I awaited for this bag to go on sale make its way into my closet because it is durable enough to use as an everyday/party bag, and the strap lets me take photos and hold drinks. You can never have enough bags... or shoes! My newest pair of foot candy comes from Juun.J, courtesy of SevenNewYork. When SevenNY revealed that they would be carrying the line, my hopes were high. I remember my depression after missing out on the Balenciaga peep-toe booties and Giuliano Fujiwara gladiator sandals, terrified that I was cursed away from runway collection SS footwear forever; but by some miracle the limited edition Kim Kiroic for Juun.J Black High-Top Sneaker Sandals (that is their full official name) are mine!! You know I love me a good gladiator/cut-out/woven shoe, so these are bound to be my favorites for summer!



I am stoked to be wearing black again. I think I am finding ways to meld my neo prep with my black-everything past. Happy Happy Birthday!!


- jerome

Birthday Loot pt. 1

CHRISTMAS IN JUNE
Duster Coat by Burberry, Oxford and Denim by Uniqlo, Hi-Tops by Raf Simons, Vintage Sunglasses, Bag by Louis Vuitton
It might as well be, right? If you have been in the Bay Area for the past couple of months, you know of the peculiar and never-ending winter I speak of. I suppose I over did it a little this year, but there is something about working in holiday weather that makes me spend holiday money shop windows brighter, turning wish lists into inventory. I have already told the story of my newest LV, but this Burberry Duster is a new addition to my wardrobe. It is very mod, but the mood changes with different ensembles. The pulls at the waist and sweep allow you to play with shape, naturally adding that excellent draped/crinkled look thanks to the properties of the water repellent fabric. I think I was sold the moment I discovered the "tails" on the back... who could resist?!! The sheer volume of the coat is enough to add drama, and that gorgeous olive, much like HANSEL and regrettably less like our current climate, is so hot right now.



- jerome

Inspiration

Letters from an Ice Princess to her Desert PrinceNatalia Vadianova shot by Ellen von Unwerth // Andreas Carrere shot by Oli Rust


- jerome