Key trends for menswear are solidified as the shows continue in New York. Like the collections in Milan and Paris, there is a strong focus on outerwear and the top heavy silhouette this season. The denim and chambray shirt is also popular, along with a consistent use of green hues and mixed prints. Concepts are pushed to extremities of either completely avant garde or authentically heritage.
Using proportion and color, Timo Weiland produces an ideal Fall collection. I am a big fan of the variety in outerwear: double breasted double collar/belted trench coats, camel top coats, and chunky knits to name a few. The shades of green are particularly beautiful as they are paired with navy, black, and all the other staples of the modern wardrobe.
All hail Rad Hourani, king of unisexual design. This collection was the perfect example of forward thinking and futurism. Apparently, clothing in the future isn't gender specific. I have been wearing a lot of color lately, but the drapey/strappy/androgynous/all-black wardrobe I have accumulated is begging for more moments in the form of Rad Hourani. These clothes are innovative in design and function, as many of the pieces are known to transform. (Note: Aside from Givenchy, I think this is one of the most diverse model castings this season. Bravo!)
Richard Chai captured my heart a few seasons ago with his unique but trendy but wearable streetwear. His print choice (and their combination) is perfect for the season, and as always, the styling is impeccable. Styling is an asset to the Chai's presentation, but the clothes can speak for themselves. The top-heavy silhouette is demonstrated here flawlessly. Just look at how the jackets fall at the perfect place on the body. The proportions!!
Chambray shirts, classic outerwear, trousers and caps. I'm intrigued. Let's just say I have a thing for this milk man, lumberjack, Colonel Sanders hybrid of a man. The Billy Reid show was set against an appropriate Autumn atmosphere. I need to find some woods to wander through. This color palette of timeless neautrals is a great option for Fall.
Diesel has always been the exception to the rule; the over-sexed, leathery, gay/guido exception. This season's Black Gold collection was a happy medium. On trend in color and silhouette, this is another collection I am interested in for its variety. I think I am going to need a leather top for Fall (and thank goodness it doesn't have to be at the Margiela price point). Also, more olive, chambray/denim shirts, boots, and belts... TREND. But being the exception, Diesel shows some skin in Autumn.
T.Bro is like that eccentric and fabulous old woman at all the fashion events who knows everyone but somehow remains mysterious. What a fantastic showing of lavish apparel! One day I will grow the balls to wear these looks in their entirety, but until then I will pick and choose individual pieces... starting with that black and white printed sweater. I love the red, white, and blue stripe on the placket. This is another brilliant interpretation of modern tailoring. With each look, there was an experiment in proportion. Thom Browne makes clothes I WANT TO LIVE IN.
- jerome
February 17, 2010
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