Bring Your Whole Crew Part 2

Remember how much I love editorials shot with a whole crew?
Well, get a load of this spread from GQ Style Germany:

Images from The Fashionisto
I am particularly drawn to the tonal dandies in the third picture down. It is like everything I love about Phoebe Philo's new minimalism on German dudes wearing nude tones: LOTS OF GOOD THINGS ARE HAPPENING HERE. Presenting the season's fashions as a group really highlights trends. After all, aren't trends born within social circles? Styling notes are found all over the world amongst groups of friends and the uniforms they wear within their subcultures. Which tribe (and I use that term loosely since no one can ever agree on labels) do you subscribe to?

And speaking of group shots, a preview advertisement for the H&M x Lanvin collaboration has been circulating the interwebs. Check out the runway inspired looks. If this is any indication of how the menswear will be designed, I just might get to own a silk parachute parka!!





- jerome

Seeing Green

Parka by Burberry, Shirt by Virgin Blak, Shorts by See by Chloe, Boots by COS
EXCUSE ME, SIR, YOU HAVE NAKED PEOPLE ON YOUR SHIRT

Upon my return from Europe, I decided that my living quarters are not nearly as lavish as they should be. I am endlessly grateful for what I have; what really disappoints me is my failure to maximize my time and energy with beautifying my castle (castle GaySkull as Jeremy calls it). There is an intense home homme improvement bug growing inside of me and I am ready to commit. If any of you know where I can source baroque moldings or the palace interior wallpaper a la Anna Dello Russo, please let me know immediately. The renovation begins with trying to find frames large enough for my huge Alphonse Mucha posters. I need more paintings and lithographs in my life (starting with this shirt).

My short visit to Vienna left a lasting impression on me. Learning about Elizabeth "Sissi"of Bavaria was interesting. She was the Queen of Hungary, Bohemia, and Croatia who had an actual influence on politics - but lived much like a celebrity with a very real eating disorder. In her day she was considered the most beautiful woman in Europe. Seeing where she lived got me thinking: WHY THE EFF DID PEOPLE EVER STOP DECORATING IN BAROQUE STYLE??!! Dare to dream.

If you haven't noticed it already, I am really back into army green. This may or may not last into the Autumn/Winter season when I obsess over jewel tones. Nonetheless, this fuels the dilemma with picking a color for the PS1. Do I like green enough to buy the Olive leather, or should I stick with my first love of smoke?? There is still time to vote!!

- jerome

CONFIRMED!!

UPDATE: GET READY FOR NOVEMBER 23RD. H&M ♥ LANVIN!!



- jerome

Panic at the Laundromat

Clothing and Shoes by Prada

Ever have something make it into the washer/dryer that really, really, REALLY wasn't supposed to? Well that is what happened to this gray Prada cardigan. I bought it at the Duomo store in Milano when I was 17. It was one of my favorites, and I wore it everywhere, but never washed it. About a year after its purchase I drunkenly mistakenly put it in my laundry basket, and it became about half the size it originally was. I was never able to part with it, using it as a warmer layer. For whatever reason, I think it works (now) on its own as a play in proportion. But then again, that could also just be the magic of the Prada stirrup pant :)


- jerome

America's Next Top Menswear Designer

I'm not sure if any of you followed GQ Magazine's search for the Best New Menswear Designers in America, but watch this video and you will be caught up to speed. The winner of the 2010 GQ/CFDA Best New Menswear Designer in America Award received a $50,000 cash prize and a limited edition Levi's collaboration collection for Bloomingdale's. Richard Chai and Billy Reid were two participating designers in the competition who showed some of my favorite collections this past A/W season (click here here to review).



Though they cater to different audiences, the tailoring, fabrics, and color stories of all these brands are linked by some form of American sentiment, which is necessary in the search for the next best American designer. When I say "American" I mean more than just the references to military looks. There are also nods to both American sportswear and the industrial revolution. Watching this video is very insightful. I think it shows what the fashion industry is looking for in the menswear market, which is proving to be more relevant to a majority of men rather than just those interested in style.

First, the brothers slash bears "best friends" duo Doug and Ben Burkman of Burkman Bros are the token rookies, presenting a collection that looks the youngest and the most homolicious of the lot. It may seem like a lot of hype for a company that has been live for a mere 18 months, but their charm and flamboyant traditionalism (think DSquared with the volume turned down and minus the logomania) earned them a nomination. Then there is Vincent Flumiani's by-the-book presentation which was very conventional, but effective. Designing for the ivy-league-traveler character he invented really gives his work a direction, allowing him to brand Caufield Preparatory in a consistent and salable way. Eunice Lee's label UN+IS is also an example of how different designer menswear is from womenswear. In my opinion, designing for men has to be more personal because men shop differently; ironically Eunice is a female, yet she offers variety because she understands her target market. I am glad she has set out to do more than just update the polo. The menswear designer for J.Crew, Frank Muytjens, was also nominated. I am always a little surprised when bigger designers - or designers backed by big names - are nominated for awards that come with a hefty prize. Acknowledgment is important, but aid should go to those who really need it. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely LOVE J.Crew right now, but Mr. Muytjens is already backed by J.Crew money. The judging panel also made a great point that Muytjens is a great stylist, which is an asset to each of these selected designers. As long as I have been following him, I have seen that styling amplifies each collection for Richard Chai. He designs clothing with functional and exquisite fabrics, with silhouettes that are interesting but accessible. I find that this particular collection demonstrates perfect proportion and print mixing.



The winner of the 2010 GQ/CFDA Best New Menswear Designer in America Award is Billy Reid. I think he was deserving for multiple reasons: 1)he presented a strong, cohesive collection 2) his designs are on trend and 3) the quality and authenticity behind his work screams Made in the U.S.A.

This may be old news, but seeing this behind the scenes footage struck a cord with me. Hearing the discussion from a panel of editorial and creative heavyweights inspires me... especially when most professional opinions seen in mainstream media are from bitchy women and overly-tanned queens sitting on the side of a runway no one cares about.


- jerome

Color Me Canadian

Canadaian brand Juma released looks for their Fall 2010 menswear collection, and I find myself wondering if all the fashionable men of the neighboring north dress like this. The entire collection is comprised of seasonless separates painted by the perfect haze of muted and neutral colors. I adore the fact that the bottoms are not skin tight (but I declare the poop pants a dead trend... unless you are Neil Barrett). At first glance the pieces look ordinary, but some unsuspected details - think gloves and drawstrings - pack a major punch. (Check out some of these highlights from Juma.



- jerome

Hurry Hurry!

Photo from V Magazine
Hello, Everyone! I wanted to drop in and do a quick update. I have been very busy with work and birthdays (I have six friends who are born on March 24th alone!). Everything is catching up with me because I feel a horrible cold coming; yet I am still in the midst of deciding what to wear to a dinner party. I trust my wardrobe, sure, but I think I rely more on my uniform of a nice button-down, black jeans, a Burberry trench, some boots, and a prayer.


Japanese Fashion Week is underway. Beautiful People's Fall show was a simple break down of my new look: more color from within all the darkness, a little pattern, a little prep, and something off beat. The collection spoke to me, and not just because Camel was my brand (I quit smoking last June after... a LONG time). Throw in a handbag and I am set. This look is perfect for everyday, street style. Keep an eye on the footwear too. I think red leather is my new obsession.

And speaking of obsessions, I am doing everything in my power to obtain the Louis Vuitton Nèo bag in Khaki. I use my Monogram version everyday and have fell in love with the size, weight, design, and charm of the bag. It is useful and, um, practical, and though it is a steep price I can justify it by selling off some designer pieces from my wardrobe. There are many things I have collected over the years that are highly coveted, but I simply cannot wear them anymore because: 1) They do not go with my style anymore, and 2) I believe someone could wear the pieces as they were meant to be worn, not sitting in a closet collecting dust. So watch out for it, the Jerome Pour Homme Silent Auction will be posted soon! Check back for your chance to score pieces from Maison Martin Margiela, Dior Homme, Helmut Lang, and more :)

UPDATE: My partner goes, "That bag would look good if you were hanging out in the forest." Well then, I am chillin' in the forest y'all!
- jerome

Unzip Him to Start

Those Europeans, they can sex up anything... including Wranglers? When I think of Wrangler I think of unflattering jeans worn by WAL-MART victims and the like. Unless you have some sort of cowboy or denim fetish you probably wont find Wranglers sexy, much less consider them one of your favorite denim brands. But there is a definite re-branding initiative taking place in the European market. The emphasis placed on heritage and quality products is a large trend this season that proves beneficial to a brand like Wrangler. The vintage American angle works, but I think that Levi's has alreadyly dominated the U.S. market (and certainly a good portion of the rest of the world). Launching this collection in Europe is a smart move for Wrangler. The U.S. clothing collections and website remain conservative and practical in design, while the European product and marketing are modern and provocative.


The Wrangler Blue Bell Jeans Collection website showcases the collection by allowing users to control a model with the click or drag of the mouse: Undress him, tug him back and forth, send him flying across the screen. If you cannot appreciate ripping the shirt off of male models, then get into the fresh concept and design of the website that was featured as The Favorite Website Awards site of the month. This is an excellent, memorable way to see how the clothes move in real life from all angles. The Blue Bell Jeans Collection consists of quality classics including shirts, jackets, and of course denim. Check out the collection on the European website.

- jerome

Eyes On Your Own Paper

Left: Burberry Prorsum, Right: TOPMAN
Is it me or are these two collections awfully similar? Christopher Bailey has done some amazing things with the Burberry brand, making it highly sought after and the jewel of London Fashion Week (equally causing a stir for menswear during Milan Fashion Week). It is no surprise that the Burberry Prorsum runway collections would be translated into fast fashion powerhouses like Zara and H&M, but to show a very similar collection on the catwalk within the same season is, um, interesting.

Top: Burberry Prorsum Fall 2010, Below: TOPMAN Fall 2010


TOPMAN and TOPSHOP are probably the best at manufacturing the season's hottest runway trends at a lower price point. Furthermore, they edit key pieces to be street "wearable." But see how all the drama is lost when put side-by-side. The volume in the Burberry Prorsum aviator jackets is gone in the TOPMAN version, leaving a large patch of shearling that seems a bit arbitrary. It is more affordable, and although it tries, it is not the same thing.

Runway doppelgangers are not unusual, especially since fashion is constantly changing and influenced by the world we live in. But this particular instance is a little obvious because the Burberry Prorsum show was broadcast live and streaming in Milan before the TOPMAN show in London a month later (both are British labels). To watch the show live, alter the designs, and create samples to send down the runway within a month is not a far fetched idea. Maybe it was a coincidence between two brands that come from the same place, but suspicion erupts when one is a hot name in the industry with a heritage dating back to 1856, and the other is famous for creating affordable knock-offs.

Bloggers and editors tweet looks from the front row to followers around the globe in real time... the ones who aren't already watching it themselves live online. This season Gucci, Jil Sander, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, and other major houses streamed their Fall 2010 collections; Burberry did it in 3-D, taking online presentation to a new level. Fashion shows are easily accessed by the general public, no longer limited to runway pictures. I cannot remember (I think it was Scott Schuman) who said that pretty soon fashion shows will be like events where seating is purchased and the front row goes to the highest bidder. Everyone has access to the show through the Internet anyway, so the live version might become for those who can afford to attend. Since fashion editors cannot always make it to all of the shows, live streams in high definition save time and money and offer a solution to being at two places at once - or at least every show that day. While I am infinitely grateful that I can watch the shows live, I hope that the looks on the runway do not begin to lose their unique aesthetics.

- jerome

All Over the Place, Part 1

You may have come across me saying that my style is evolving, changing, or something along those lines. It may go back and forth from draped to tailored and black to bright, but I want to assure everyone I am anything but confused! There are just so many options out there that, right now, I am trying to find a balance. As a pack-rat who has gone through many fashion phases, my wardrobe has come to be pretty eclectic. Here are some Fall collections that speak to me.

Lou Dalton is a master at infusing classics with an unsuspected twist. I find one off-beat design element that ties together an otherwise "traditional" collection. Dalton presented equestrian dandies and distressed hunters last A/W by using large cable knits and knee patches (the inner seams seen on riding breeches). This season, he crafted his take on the urban Scotsman. I am in love with the full tartan suit and half kilts, an idea that Marc Jacobs also utilized this Fall.

More plaid, but more punk. J.W. Anderson's tailoring updates alternative style. The hardware is chunkier than normal, as seen in the choker belt and Caravan Boots. The boots and OTHER EXQUISITE accessories remind me of Japanese street style, kind of like a quirkier Ricardo Tisci. Pay attention to the colors and layers of the shoes and bags, and how it all comes together with each look:

The Soar Fall 2010 collection strikes me as the male answer to Phoebe Philo's collection for Celine. The layers and proportions are modern, without the use of too much color. I like the combination of different textures with leather, a large trend for the upcoming Fall season.

Daniel Palillo is known for his graphics and outrageous proportions. The Fall collection retains the oversized silhouette, but it is smaller than usual for this designer. The irony is that the season calls for a top heavy look, and Palillo answers by shrinking his already trademarked volumes. But what I am really invested in are the prints. How amazing is that C-3PO/Skull shirt?!!

- jerome

A Quickie With Some Men

I have been having a hectic week. Trying to keep up with the shows (DO NOT GET ME STARTED ON WOMENSWEAR) has been pretty tough. I continue to toy with the idea of reviewing the females too, but I think I might do some touch points on the off season. I follow the women's shows just as closely as the men's, but there are many more of them in such a short amount of time. I like tuning in on menswear because it helps me evolve/learn about my own style. Besides, I promised myself I would cut down on buying women's clothes since my current obsession with handbags is expen$ive enough... and they almost always have my size ;)

Here are some more of my favorite looks for the Fall 2010 season:

Call me sentimental, but I am so smitten with this SK8R BOY looking collection from WOOD WOOD. The simple silhouettes are revamped, like the longer shirts and cropped pants for example. Everything is tied together with backpacks, beanies, and other boy-ish things that I was fond of so long ago. The updated look is much better because of the cut and the prints, but I think everyone is thankful there are no ball-chain-necklaces.

I am going out on a limb here and say that Marc Jacobs is the KING of "WHY DO I WANT TO WEAR THAT?!" contemporary sportswear. I am wowed each season with something so hideous I actually raise my eyebrows, and by the same token, I am computing and strategizing, figuring out just how the hell I am going to afford the look that just came after the total 'Fashion WTF' (this includes all of the brands he oversees: Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc, and Louis Vuitton). There is something offbeat about Fall 2010 that caught my attention. The belted jackets, cross body bags, and olive tones were on trend. However, the occasional wide leg trouser added the right amount of surprise. In a sea of top heavy menswear shows, Marc Jacobs knows how to stay in touch with the season's message while keeping you interested by utilizing unique ideas.

B Store is going to offer you lifestyle next season. With tops, bottoms, footwear, and outerwear to fit any occasion, the Fall collection is the perfect medley of basics for the young and modern male. I am living for the belted pajama shirt under the peaked lapel blazer, atop a tapered trouser tucked into a mid-calf boot. The silhouette is nothing new, but using long-johns as an alternative to skinny jeans is refreshing. This collection still maintains the emphasis of a relaxed and top heavy silhouette while excluding overly-sized/warm jackets, which (as a Californian) earns my respect and gratitude.

- jerome

More From Fashion Month

Fashion month continues as my wishlist continues to grow. I love what I am seeing: more futuristic henchmen and avant garde street wear. There are clothes that could easily fit the pages of both comics and fashion magazines. These looks are both conceptual and wearable. On the street the pieces may be worn differently to achieve a variety of moods. But certain statement garments are show stoppers not to be worn by the timid.

Todd Lynn's use of furs and skins is fresh, sexy, and luxurious. I cringe when sneakers are worn with the wrong jacket, and you would think that fur just doesn't go with a rubber sole. This combination of fur, leather, and high-er tops is the street-ready, masculine option for those who want that unisexual androgyny while wearing clothes tailored for the male physique. Lynn has received a lot of attention after Carine Roitfeld wore one of his furs. And if you were wondering who Janet Jackson is wearing in her videos, now you know.

I do not know much about John Rocha except for the fact that he is 1) Asian 2) based in Ireland and 3) shows in London. Now as a gay Filipino, I am not so sure I would assimilate so easily in Ireland (but a vacation there is still on my things to do before I die). Respect. Anyway, I was interested in this collection because of the raw edges. The looks seemed to be unfinished; not in the Demeulemeester way (though it has the same effect), but in this haphazard-yet-refined styling. I like the different textures of black that are layered together. It is as if these men are wearing rugs and upholstery in a very chic way. Jethro was an excellent casting choice.


Henrik Vibskov always has an interesting take on shape and color. This season, he uses color blocking and a mixture of prints to express his point of view. I am not entirely sure of the purpose of the helmets and spectacles but it is clear that he focused on how the clothes will be worn in real life. These pieces look a bit loud as ensembles, but as separates they may be the special something you need to pull everything together. If kilts aren't your thing then a jacket or cardigan with the right print can set the tone for your look this season. And remember that even in Copenhagen, the belted waist reigns for Fall.

- jerome

Fall Trends Fall Into Place

Key trends for menswear are solidified as the shows continue in New York. Like the collections in Milan and Paris, there is a strong focus on outerwear and the top heavy silhouette this season. The denim and chambray shirt is also popular, along with a consistent use of green hues and mixed prints. Concepts are pushed to extremities of either completely avant garde or authentically heritage.


Using proportion and color, Timo Weiland produces an ideal Fall collection. I am a big fan of the variety in outerwear: double breasted double collar/belted trench coats, camel top coats, and chunky knits to name a few. The shades of green are particularly beautiful as they are paired with navy, black, and all the other staples of the modern wardrobe.

All hail Rad Hourani, king of unisexual design. This collection was the perfect example of forward thinking and futurism. Apparently, clothing in the future isn't gender specific. I have been wearing a lot of color lately, but the drapey/strappy/androgynous/all-black wardrobe I have accumulated is begging for more moments in the form of Rad Hourani. These clothes are innovative in design and function, as many of the pieces are known to transform. (Note: Aside from Givenchy, I think this is one of the most diverse model castings this season. Bravo!)

Richard Chai captured my heart a few seasons ago with his unique but trendy but wearable streetwear. His print choice (and their combination) is perfect for the season, and as always, the styling is impeccable. Styling is an asset to the Chai's presentation, but the clothes can speak for themselves. The top-heavy silhouette is demonstrated here flawlessly. Just look at how the jackets fall at the perfect place on the body. The proportions!!

Chambray shirts, classic outerwear, trousers and caps. I'm intrigued. Let's just say I have a thing for this milk man, lumberjack, Colonel Sanders hybrid of a man. The Billy Reid show was set against an appropriate Autumn atmosphere. I need to find some woods to wander through. This color palette of timeless neautrals is a great option for Fall.

Diesel has always been the exception to the rule; the over-sexed, leathery, gay/guido exception. This season's Black Gold collection was a happy medium. On trend in color and silhouette, this is another collection I am interested in for its variety. I think I am going to need a leather top for Fall (and thank goodness it doesn't have to be at the Margiela price point). Also, more olive, chambray/denim shirts, boots, and belts... TREND. But being the exception, Diesel shows some skin in Autumn.

T.Bro is like that eccentric and fabulous old woman at all the fashion events who knows everyone but somehow remains mysterious. What a fantastic showing of lavish apparel! One day I will grow the balls to wear these looks in their entirety, but until then I will pick and choose individual pieces... starting with that black and white printed sweater. I love the red, white, and blue stripe on the placket. This is another brilliant interpretation of modern tailoring. With each look, there was an experiment in proportion. Thom Browne makes clothes I WANT TO LIVE IN.

- jerome

New York Moments

New York Fashion Week is in full swing, and boy have there been some moments to remember! Menswear is looking fantastic, and it appears that all of the trends of the season are translating to American design. Ivy-league school boys, military brats, and new-age travelers are sent down the runways. Heritage is big this season. Looking to the past for inspiration is one of the best (looking) ways to move forward.

Phillip Lim knows how to suck my wallet dry. This recent Fall collection looks like the uniforms of the students who would attend the Academy for Inglorious Basterds. The olive and camel colors are my favorites this season, and the hint of navy seals the deal for me. The belted waist is transformed into a harness/holster look that I MUST HAVE. Also, words cannot express how much I adore the Varsity Motorcycle Trench in black.

Robert Geller surprised me this season with the simple looks, and semi-healthy looking models. I was going to pigeon-hole this designer as someone who made beautifully tailored pieces for boys who look dead. Past collections have been dark and complex, but this Fall is simply chic. Statement pieces like the Mongolian fur muffler (thing?) was dramatic because of its volume, not because of gaudiness. Sweet derby hats!

Patrik Ervell (San Francisco native!!) is famous for his use of technical fabrics. He pushes the limit again, creating rainwear made entirely of rubber that is bonded together, producing a seamless, see-through, and practical garment. This fabric was sometimes draped over the side of the shoulder in such a romantic way, which is a testament to Ervell's skill (can you imagine, draping rubber?!). Although it is a bit too condom-ish for my taste, Anna Wintour is most definitely a fan of the rubber. Those pieces aside, the Chinese-military-inspired collection featured many of my favorite things for this Fall: monochromatic ensembles, belted looks, and a chunky shoe. What's not to love?

I am still on the fence with this Rag & Bone collection. Maybe it's because I cannot picture myself in beanies. I am a fan of fairisle, and mixing prints is key this coming Fall, so I am on board with that. But camouflage?! The layered lengths are also very smart, but strip it down and you are left with expensive flannel night gowns. I wonder what will be edited for stores. Aside from my beanie envy, I like the color palette. It looks like a good collection to grab key pieces from since Rag & Bone produces well-made clothes.

- jerome

Fall Will Be a Cinch!

There are many different things I am excited about for the Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 season. Various trends have emerged from the runway shows, so I have started forecasting what I think will be on the streets (or at the very least, what I will be wearing). It appears that the top heavy silhouette is here to stay, but a prominent variation on the look comes in the form of belted ensembles. Cinched waists have been shown on many a runway so far, from Milan to Stockholm. Belted coats look romantic and refined, adding sophistication to outerwear pieces. I am not sure if it will be a full fledged trend, but it is a classic look that the mainstream male audience will be exposed to in the following seasons.

1. A belted look spotted by Tommy Ton for GQ.com 2. Lanvin 3. Ann Demeulemeester 4. Smalto 5. Wooyoungmi 6. Viktor & Rolf
Other trends for A/W include mid-calf combat boots and shearling. And though my excitement for Spring and Summer continues to grow, the Fall shows keep my interest in warmer clothes because San Francisco is still in a cold spell. There is rain and fog, sun and wind. I am keeping my collars high and my radar on Fall until the season changes.


BLOG UPDATE: Check out the side bar on the right to see my running wishlist. Actually, I need those things.

- jerome

Sweet Sweden

Sweden produces three of my favorite things: beautiful music, beautiful people, and beautiful clothing. I want to make my way there one day, and perhaps see how they do it. Until then, I must continue to experience Scandinavia through the Internet. Here are some of my favorite looks from Stockholm Fashion Week 2010.

The HOPE show took place in a dining hall setting, the runway being in the middle of two long communal dinner tables. Romantic, and also the perfect compliment to a street wise collection. The color palette is simple and the silhouette on trend. This was a good showing of separates that any man can use. Take note of the trousers and the even balance of relaxed and skinny styles. TAKE NOTE GUYS.

Another brand I have stumbled upon this year is Carine Wester. Super cute unusual proportions pretty much sums it up. There is something about the length of these tops that make me anxious and want to buy one immediately. I like how they are cropped pretty short, but high waistbands cover the mid section with just enough peeking out. I like the heeled lace-up booties that add even more androgyny to the looks. These looks make me happy; perky even. The saddest part about this brand is that I can choose to buy these clothes from the cute online shop, but shipping to the States basically doubles the price. If you dare, check out Carine Wester!

Acne is awesome. Duh. You've probably heard of them if you don't already lust after their top quality denim... which is why this collection was a refreshing surprise... because how fantastic is this season?!! It's The Aviator meets Scandinavian design (and hopefully meets my closet). Wearable, conceptual, and multi-seasonal. Also, this is another reminder to get some shearling for Fall.

With any new brand, I try to research the history of the design(ers) first, bypassing the instinctual search for stockists. I discovered that the design philosophy of the brand was originally based on the molecular structure of a unique "odeur," the logo being a single geometrical shape. Designs based on stank?? The outcome was a series of structural garments with both style and texture. Last Fall, I enjoyed the use of natural graphics including numbers and moonscapes. For Fall 2010, Odeur presents boldly structural garments. There is no male or female section on the website, upping the androgyny and appeal for fans of Rad Hourani, Rick Owens, and other unisexual brands.


- jerome

Wait List

All clothes by Prada, Fall 2010

One learns to appreciate a good day off after finally getting a job. Sure, my life as a photographer was work, but being paid to be nocturnal was more pleasure (and everyday was a day off except for school). My plans for today were clear: pick up dry cleaning, get haircut, and shop. After trying on tops and jeans that didn't fit quite right, and thumbing through SLGs and charms that lost my interest, I gave up. What was wrong with me? It dawned on me that I was looking for something that was not available yet, something new for spring, or only as samples for Fall 2010.

Enter the wait listing system. While at a few boutiques, I inquired about a few pieces from the runway shows. Hesitant sales associates said they weren't available, but BITCH PLEASE, I broke them down verbally and was presented with the price lists for the store's Spring buy (eventually I was handed off to a really nice SA that I could relate to which was perfect because I can only pretend to be intimidating for like 5 minutes). I have every intention of doing this for the Fall 2010 season because, well, you saw all the greatness. Anyway, the Spring runway pieces I want are insanely priced. I cannot in good conscience put myself on a wait list without seeing what I am buying, so I will wait for the trunk show. There is only one thing I would get on a list for without seeing it, especially since I need to buy time to save for it, and that is a Birkin. And possibly a baby in the future. If I were Angelina, I could probably bypass both wait lists.

PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE, LETS HOPE MY WISH LIST DOESN'T SELL OUT.


- jerome

The Shape of Things to Come

Having a job doesn't really leave me much time to keep up with blogs, fashion shows, or the Kardasians, so lets not talk about the couture shows just yet. Here are the last of my mini-reviews for the Fall 2010 menswear shows from Paris. Some highs and some lows (though the following isn't listed in any particular order). I am a little relieved Paris is coming to a close because now I can focus on preparing for the many hits my Birkin fund is going to take.

I found out about Ute Ploier a few years ago when I was really into large costume jewelry. I remember seeing clusters of red, plastic crosses dripping from the clavicles of these long haired models and thought to myself, "I BACK IT FULLY." I do not see the same use of iconography here, but I still like the mohair cardigans and wrap shirts that create a casual silhouette. Again, I am still attracted to that draped leather look, which confuses me every morning when I want to wear a blazer or trench. I usually end up pairing draped leather with a nice button up, mixing my two opposing tastes.

When I was going through this show, my partner peeked over my shoulder and said something along the lines of, "Those are some serious scientists from the future." There is something clinical about the color palette: nude, black, scrubs green, and orange (not pictured). I am not so crazy about the swimmer caps, but the cream Fez is pretty sweet. More interesting shapes from this forward house. Obviously it is not for everyone, but I love how the shapes of the clothing accent the shape of the body.

I was not so crazy about the Jil Sander show (please don't throw garbage at me), but this is the Raf Simons I know and love. I have a feeling some might feel the opposite, but I feel this collection sings a lot more. The two-tone-trench was one of my favorite looks because I love the deconstructed element, and I am a sucker for alliteration. Raf has a talent for color blocking as we have seen in the past, and I love what the body-con tunics (which MUST be layered) look like under a blazer. I cannot wait to feel the fabrics he chose for these designs.

DO IT TO ME EVERY TIME. I am obsessed with Mihara Yasuhiro. This collection had everything I adore from this season including a top-heavy silhouette, romantic prints, belted looks, denim shirts, and outerwear with a statement. The combination of modern and classic is really catching my eye this year. The only problem for me now is availability. CHARGE SEND.

I will take one of each, please. The half cape double breasted coat is divine, while aqua suits and amethyst trousers glimmer as they move under lights. Paul Smith is growing on me.


All I have to say is color contrast trench coats and leather bags and accessories. You had me at Look 1.

Dunhill gives us more from the university trend this season with blazers and crests, ties and cardigans, and wool coats. The flask and cigar holder utility belt looks good, but I wonder if it would get annoying to actually walk around with it on. Tucking your trouser cuffs into your socks/spats/leg warmers is looking to be a trend, but boots in general are here to stay.

VAGINA VAGINA VAGINA.

Selecting but a few looks to blog that represented what I love most about this Lanvin collection was extremely difficult. The ensembles seemed natural and approachable, though the looks were flawlessly styled and screamed luxury. The footwear is fantastic as well, but remember that with Lucas Ossendrijver you can always expect must-have shoes.

Photos from GQ and The Fashionisto


- jerome