Eyes On Your Own Paper

Left: Burberry Prorsum, Right: TOPMAN
Is it me or are these two collections awfully similar? Christopher Bailey has done some amazing things with the Burberry brand, making it highly sought after and the jewel of London Fashion Week (equally causing a stir for menswear during Milan Fashion Week). It is no surprise that the Burberry Prorsum runway collections would be translated into fast fashion powerhouses like Zara and H&M, but to show a very similar collection on the catwalk within the same season is, um, interesting.

Top: Burberry Prorsum Fall 2010, Below: TOPMAN Fall 2010


TOPMAN and TOPSHOP are probably the best at manufacturing the season's hottest runway trends at a lower price point. Furthermore, they edit key pieces to be street "wearable." But see how all the drama is lost when put side-by-side. The volume in the Burberry Prorsum aviator jackets is gone in the TOPMAN version, leaving a large patch of shearling that seems a bit arbitrary. It is more affordable, and although it tries, it is not the same thing.

Runway doppelgangers are not unusual, especially since fashion is constantly changing and influenced by the world we live in. But this particular instance is a little obvious because the Burberry Prorsum show was broadcast live and streaming in Milan before the TOPMAN show in London a month later (both are British labels). To watch the show live, alter the designs, and create samples to send down the runway within a month is not a far fetched idea. Maybe it was a coincidence between two brands that come from the same place, but suspicion erupts when one is a hot name in the industry with a heritage dating back to 1856, and the other is famous for creating affordable knock-offs.

Bloggers and editors tweet looks from the front row to followers around the globe in real time... the ones who aren't already watching it themselves live online. This season Gucci, Jil Sander, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, and other major houses streamed their Fall 2010 collections; Burberry did it in 3-D, taking online presentation to a new level. Fashion shows are easily accessed by the general public, no longer limited to runway pictures. I cannot remember (I think it was Scott Schuman) who said that pretty soon fashion shows will be like events where seating is purchased and the front row goes to the highest bidder. Everyone has access to the show through the Internet anyway, so the live version might become for those who can afford to attend. Since fashion editors cannot always make it to all of the shows, live streams in high definition save time and money and offer a solution to being at two places at once - or at least every show that day. While I am infinitely grateful that I can watch the shows live, I hope that the looks on the runway do not begin to lose their unique aesthetics.

- jerome

All Over the Place, Part 2

This is but a taste of the delicious styling brought to you by Panos Yiapanis in the Spring 2010 issue of Vman. The story, shot by Sebastian Faena, celebrates Dolce & Gabbana's 20 year history of dressing men. I worship Yiapanis. He is one of the leading fashion stylists/editors in the industry today. I'm pretty sure he was responsible for my obsession with black and draped/post-apocalyptic/warrior chic design. Then...

Remember when I blogged about the GQ editorial featuring Johan Johannson, styled by Andreas Krings, and photographed by Stefan Heinrich? That was probably the antithesis to the VMan story, but I love it NOW and just the same! I wonder what I am going to wear tomorrow...

All Over the Place, Part 1

You may have come across me saying that my style is evolving, changing, or something along those lines. It may go back and forth from draped to tailored and black to bright, but I want to assure everyone I am anything but confused! There are just so many options out there that, right now, I am trying to find a balance. As a pack-rat who has gone through many fashion phases, my wardrobe has come to be pretty eclectic. Here are some Fall collections that speak to me.

Lou Dalton is a master at infusing classics with an unsuspected twist. I find one off-beat design element that ties together an otherwise "traditional" collection. Dalton presented equestrian dandies and distressed hunters last A/W by using large cable knits and knee patches (the inner seams seen on riding breeches). This season, he crafted his take on the urban Scotsman. I am in love with the full tartan suit and half kilts, an idea that Marc Jacobs also utilized this Fall.

More plaid, but more punk. J.W. Anderson's tailoring updates alternative style. The hardware is chunkier than normal, as seen in the choker belt and Caravan Boots. The boots and OTHER EXQUISITE accessories remind me of Japanese street style, kind of like a quirkier Ricardo Tisci. Pay attention to the colors and layers of the shoes and bags, and how it all comes together with each look:

The Soar Fall 2010 collection strikes me as the male answer to Phoebe Philo's collection for Celine. The layers and proportions are modern, without the use of too much color. I like the combination of different textures with leather, a large trend for the upcoming Fall season.

Daniel Palillo is known for his graphics and outrageous proportions. The Fall collection retains the oversized silhouette, but it is smaller than usual for this designer. The irony is that the season calls for a top heavy look, and Palillo answers by shrinking his already trademarked volumes. But what I am really invested in are the prints. How amazing is that C-3PO/Skull shirt?!!

- jerome

A Quickie With Some Men

I have been having a hectic week. Trying to keep up with the shows (DO NOT GET ME STARTED ON WOMENSWEAR) has been pretty tough. I continue to toy with the idea of reviewing the females too, but I think I might do some touch points on the off season. I follow the women's shows just as closely as the men's, but there are many more of them in such a short amount of time. I like tuning in on menswear because it helps me evolve/learn about my own style. Besides, I promised myself I would cut down on buying women's clothes since my current obsession with handbags is expen$ive enough... and they almost always have my size ;)

Here are some more of my favorite looks for the Fall 2010 season:

Call me sentimental, but I am so smitten with this SK8R BOY looking collection from WOOD WOOD. The simple silhouettes are revamped, like the longer shirts and cropped pants for example. Everything is tied together with backpacks, beanies, and other boy-ish things that I was fond of so long ago. The updated look is much better because of the cut and the prints, but I think everyone is thankful there are no ball-chain-necklaces.

I am going out on a limb here and say that Marc Jacobs is the KING of "WHY DO I WANT TO WEAR THAT?!" contemporary sportswear. I am wowed each season with something so hideous I actually raise my eyebrows, and by the same token, I am computing and strategizing, figuring out just how the hell I am going to afford the look that just came after the total 'Fashion WTF' (this includes all of the brands he oversees: Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc, and Louis Vuitton). There is something offbeat about Fall 2010 that caught my attention. The belted jackets, cross body bags, and olive tones were on trend. However, the occasional wide leg trouser added the right amount of surprise. In a sea of top heavy menswear shows, Marc Jacobs knows how to stay in touch with the season's message while keeping you interested by utilizing unique ideas.

B Store is going to offer you lifestyle next season. With tops, bottoms, footwear, and outerwear to fit any occasion, the Fall collection is the perfect medley of basics for the young and modern male. I am living for the belted pajama shirt under the peaked lapel blazer, atop a tapered trouser tucked into a mid-calf boot. The silhouette is nothing new, but using long-johns as an alternative to skinny jeans is refreshing. This collection still maintains the emphasis of a relaxed and top heavy silhouette while excluding overly-sized/warm jackets, which (as a Californian) earns my respect and gratitude.

- jerome

More From Fashion Month

Fashion month continues as my wishlist continues to grow. I love what I am seeing: more futuristic henchmen and avant garde street wear. There are clothes that could easily fit the pages of both comics and fashion magazines. These looks are both conceptual and wearable. On the street the pieces may be worn differently to achieve a variety of moods. But certain statement garments are show stoppers not to be worn by the timid.

Todd Lynn's use of furs and skins is fresh, sexy, and luxurious. I cringe when sneakers are worn with the wrong jacket, and you would think that fur just doesn't go with a rubber sole. This combination of fur, leather, and high-er tops is the street-ready, masculine option for those who want that unisexual androgyny while wearing clothes tailored for the male physique. Lynn has received a lot of attention after Carine Roitfeld wore one of his furs. And if you were wondering who Janet Jackson is wearing in her videos, now you know.

I do not know much about John Rocha except for the fact that he is 1) Asian 2) based in Ireland and 3) shows in London. Now as a gay Filipino, I am not so sure I would assimilate so easily in Ireland (but a vacation there is still on my things to do before I die). Respect. Anyway, I was interested in this collection because of the raw edges. The looks seemed to be unfinished; not in the Demeulemeester way (though it has the same effect), but in this haphazard-yet-refined styling. I like the different textures of black that are layered together. It is as if these men are wearing rugs and upholstery in a very chic way. Jethro was an excellent casting choice.


Henrik Vibskov always has an interesting take on shape and color. This season, he uses color blocking and a mixture of prints to express his point of view. I am not entirely sure of the purpose of the helmets and spectacles but it is clear that he focused on how the clothes will be worn in real life. These pieces look a bit loud as ensembles, but as separates they may be the special something you need to pull everything together. If kilts aren't your thing then a jacket or cardigan with the right print can set the tone for your look this season. And remember that even in Copenhagen, the belted waist reigns for Fall.

- jerome

Papa's Got a Brand New Bag

Corduroy Shirt by Opening Ceremony X Levis, Tonal Check Shirt by Burberry, Shorts by A.P.C., Huarache Sandals by Jeffrey Campbell, Sunglasses by Tom Ford, Mason Bag by Heritage Leather Co.
After a full work week, I was prepared to sleep in, shop online, and listen to the endless rain that all the forecasts said was coming. It was a pleasant surprise when I awoke to a beautiful day. I think it's a good sign when the bad weather takes a break on my days off. Today was a good opportunity to wear the lavender I've been obsessed with and let my Mason Bag have its day in the sun. Papa's got a brand new bag.


The Mason Bag is one heavy duty sidekick. Made to hold a carpenter's basic necessities, the Mason is built to be durable and trustworthy. It naturally maintains its shape because of the steel frame opening and the leather and plywood base that reinforces the bag. It served me well when I ran a few errands today. The large, inner pocket kept all of my personals separate from the groceries I had picked up. Everything was secured inside when I dropped the bag thanks to the belt straps (I am a klutz, but thankfully I didn't buy eggs or anything). This is not the bag for someone in a hurry. Since it was built with a purpose other than being a cute hold all, the Mason does not afford easy access because of the secure closure. The bag itself is also heavier than most handbags, but its size makes it a practical bag for lazy errands or travel.

The bag is literally a blank canvas that I constantly think about having customized. My initials will surely be part of the design. The Mason Bag comes in larger sizes and is available through Hickoree's Hard Goods. Check out the online store for this bag and other sweet finds!

- jerome

An Opening Ceremony

The OPENING CEREMONY X LEVI'S Collaboration party was a wonderful night in San Francisco. A much needed gathering of creatives, I was pleasantly surprised by the crowd of well-dressed, non-pretentious people. It was exciting to discover a new legion of movers and shakers within the 7x7, amongst a sea of the friendly faces I am happy to have known for so long.

The OC X Levi's collection consists of a variety of separates in a charming selection of spring colors, fabricated in corduroy; a marriage of forward thinking and vintage Americana. I am particularly fond of the lavender hue that I have been itching to wear in Spring since Winter! Levi's is known all over the world for quality denim and trusted cuts. It is an established and respected brand that has evolved from an original idea. From that perspective, a collaboration between Levi's and Opening Ceremony, a boutique that is a platform for emerging talent from all over the world, seems so natural.


The party was quite the soiree. One thing I love about San Francisco events is the comfort of knowing that you will inevitably run into a friend. Bumping elbows with DJs, bloggers, and industry heavy weights is even more fun when amplified by an open bar, smores, and good company. And as always, I love a good dance floor. Local band Wallpaper., whom I previously posted about, played a great set that was followed by nostalgic jams from the 1990's, courtesy of DJ Jeffrey Paradise. It was a strange feeling to be dancing and drinking around all the merchandise! I went in the next day with my shopping list, surrounded by unsuspecting tourists who have no clue as to how much fun that I (and all the hungover employees) had the previous night.

Co-founder of Opening Ceremony Humberto Leon (far right) with local tailoring genius Al (center) of Al's Attire
Eric Frederic and Arjun Singh of Wallpaper.
Jeffrey Paradise (left) during a well received DJ set



SF really needed something like this. I am glad to see we are moving forward, and I hope to see more collaborations, establishments, and events like this in the near future. A special thanks to Ava Berlin. Looks from the collection to follow. XO!

UPDATE: I just realized I didn't update my copyright when watermarking these photos. Please don't laugh at me... or steal my pictures.

- jerome