Dries Van Noten SS2012

My favorite show from Paris was Dries Van Noten. Quite a bold statement, but this SS2012 collection is in tune with my personal style on every level. The prints, the tailoring, and even the peplum pants have my checking account tearing with anxiety. The master of prints mixes the city with the wilderness in a random - yet perfectly orchestrated - selection of images. The "lightscapes" are from the works of photographer James Reeve in a series that focuses on capturing the light in the dark. This theme is off beat for your average Spring show but Dries often benefits greatly from the unexpected. I never thought I could feel the same serenity in representations of both the ocean and Circus Circus, but trust Dries to harness that kind of emotion. He is so bad ass clever he decided to throw in an embellished matador jacket to an already stunning show of sophisticated silhouettes.


Dries was quoted backstage that he was inspired by the volume he had seen at the "Balenciaga and Spain" exhibit in San Francisco. DEAR DRIES: I CANT BELIEVE YOU DIDN'T CALL ME?!! I totally go to the de Young like all the time, dood!

I have to stay on top of these shirts so that I don't have another Céline mishap. The Circus Circus print reminds me of my childhood and running through the Midway, playing games to win stuffed animals and begging my parents for more quarters for the arcade. Everything would stop when the acrobats would perform over head. The peplum pants and shorts may have to be a try on, but I am pretty sure they will both be too feminine for my taste.

Photo by Emil Dizon

BUT I TOTALLY WANT IT ALL

- jerome

Norman Ambrose SS2012

The last show I attended for New York Fashion Week was Norman Ambrose. I had no idea what to expect, but it was a treat when standing room guests were allowed seats and I was able to get to the second row. This came at a huge advantage for Ambrose's Spring 2012 runway presentation. There is an incredible amount of detail in the endless opulence of this collection. Each ensemble was dripping with sparkle; crafted from luxurious fabrics that were tailored to perfection.


There is a distinct Asian influence in the design. I loved the black paddy hats and mix of coral and jade. The stand out piece has to be the golden urchin jacket. Watching it come down the runway, I overheard one of the design assistants say that the piece was made of glass rods. That thing has to weigh a ton! Now I may not like the entire collection but I can appreciate the work and skill that went into it. Maybe one day I will be a legit Fu Tai Tai (the Mandarin term for "Real Housewives of China") and need a jewel encrusted cover up for my jewel encrusted bikini, but until then the only thing I can relate to is the urchin coat - kind of. It has to weigh as much as the Burberry Prorsum studded jacket. Still, a lovely presentation by Ambrose.

- jerome

Robert Geller SS2012

One of my favorite menswear shows from NYFW was Robert Geller. Each season I am impressed by Geller's collections. The cuts and shapes of his designs are some of the freshest and most romantic for the modern gentleman. I developed a taste for Geller's aesthetic years ago while he was designing for Cloak, a brand he launched with Alexandre Plokhov. The two parted ways in 2004 and the label eventually closed down in 2007, but thank goodness both men are still designing some of the best menswear out there (both received honors from the CFDA). This season, Geller experimented with "unorthodox" shapes in his design. The proportions and silhouettes are changed by accessories, oversized clothing, and tailoring. Linens, jerseys, and mesh are all used in this handsome Spring collection.


Note that all accessories including the hats and jewelry are a collaboration with Brooklyn-based designer Scosha. Also, the brogues are part of a continuing partnership with Common Projects. I am quite fond of Geller's collaborations. There is still a bracelet he did with Alyssa Norton that I am searching for.

It was an incredible experience to attend the runway presentation. There were some big names in the front row, and considering my goals to work as an editor, I was quite intimidated to be sitting inches from the head honchos of several international editions of GQ, Vogue Hommes, and many more publications I read on the daily. What a show to see! On my way to catch a cab back to my apartment, I found myself just outside the Altuzarra show as it finished. Talk about fashion celebrities...

- jerome

Meanwhile at Loden Dager

Why, yes! That IS Danny Beauchamp and Vincent Lacrocq! I arrived at the Loden Dager show last month just in time to catch these two on a break. I am glad I got these two boys when I did. I mean, VINCENT LOCROCQ.


One of the first things I learned during my first round at NYFW is that nothing starts on time. Getting anywhere early, or sticking around after, offers you the opportunity to see everything that goes into fashion show production and attendance. I can't wait to go back in February. The marathon might not as be as charming in the snow, but I think I am ready for it - or at least mentally prepared.

- jerome

Honor SS2012

Giovanna Randall presented a wonderful selection of dresses for Honor's Spring 2012 collection. What I loved the most in the show was the play on the peter pan collar. There were cut outs to simulate the shape, exposing delicate decolletage. I feel like this is what Joan from Mad Men would have worn when she was in high school. Another favorite of mine was the gold plated metal collar accenting many of the looks. This is such an easy statement neck piece to add to any shirt for instant drama without costume. I hope that collar comes in silver! The show was a super sweet parade of ponytails and petticoats. If you are one for modern takes on 1950's dresses, I highly suggest you check out the rest of this collection.

- jerome

Loden Dager SS2012

Runway detail photos via GQ.com
Loden Dager presented an awesome collection for Spring. I had quite the adventure trying to find the venue Good Units. It was at the basement of the Hudson Hotel in Manhattan, which I had never been to, so I pretty much just followed all of the fashion looking types to the bottom floor. One thing I learned about fashion week is that everything starts at least 30 minutes least. This show was worth the wait. Loden Dager always incorporates interesting, unexpected details. I desire the prints, covet the zippered backless hoodie, and adore the styling (one sleeve on, one sleeve off of a jumpsuit is the new one strap on, one strap off on overalls).


This was my first menswear show of NYFW, and I saw some major faces that I had only seen in magazines. The current faces of Calvin Klein, GAP, and Balmain strode gracefully before my very eyes. All the shoes were provided by NIKE and complemented the fluorescent palette perfectly. What an awesome show!!

- jerome

3.1 Phillip Lim SS12

I WILL TAKE ONE OF EVERYTHING, PLEASE.


SEN MITSUJI + PHILLIP LIM = all I want for Christmas

- jerome