Meanwhile at Loden Dager

Why, yes! That IS Danny Beauchamp and Vincent Lacrocq! I arrived at the Loden Dager show last month just in time to catch these two on a break. I am glad I got these two boys when I did. I mean, VINCENT LOCROCQ.


One of the first things I learned during my first round at NYFW is that nothing starts on time. Getting anywhere early, or sticking around after, offers you the opportunity to see everything that goes into fashion show production and attendance. I can't wait to go back in February. The marathon might not as be as charming in the snow, but I think I am ready for it - or at least mentally prepared.

- jerome

Man Peplums in Paris

Louis Vuitton A/W 2011
I always get a feeling of satisfaction and validation whenever my current style mood is in tune with some of my favorite designers. As we have seen in Milan and Paris, menswear is back in menswear! Even when pushing the envelope and walking the line between androgyny and drag, there is an unmistakable masculine attitude to the latest collections. There is a special place in my heart for Milano, but my soul belongs to the shows in Paris. And God bless them, the designers are doing peplums!! (Kind of!!)


2010 was the year of Louis Vuitton for me. I was quite taken to the womens Spring show and the message of finding beauty within the mix of city and nature. San Francisco is really a perfect example of this juxtaposition. This latest menswear collection was very modern. I love the small clutches, portfolios, and other leather goods balancing out the hard, structured ready to wear. The exaggerated lengths on the blazer silhouettes were a pleasant surprise, as were the pops of color. But of course my favorite looks were the belted blazers that created the peplum effect!!


Ann Demeulemeester can suit up a storm. Each collection really showcases technique by mixing draped garments with tailored looks. I am not sure I quite understand the weaves the models had this season. That being said OMFG I NEED TO GET DOWN WITH SOME DECONSTRUCTED CUMMERBUNDS AND WAISTCOATS. See how these unbuttoned layers of fabric create a skirted silhouette.


One other show I had my eye on in Paris was 3.1 Phillip Lim. It was the designer's first show in Paris for the brand, and I believe the collection is worthy showcasing at PFW. But Phillip Lim has always been a checking account drainer for me. The prints and baseball jackets really caught my eye. Bi-material garments might be my new lust in 2011. I can relate to Lim's use of color in that I like to dress with a neutral palette and use color or print as a statement. Aaaand check out that skirt action with the layering!

- jerome

Sack is Such a Good Word

I love a good rucksack/backpack/bookbag. I am still in search of the perfect shape and quality leather. Essentially, I need something that will have clean lines, drape well even when stuffed, and develop a beautiful patina over time. I am pretty picky too: I want a top handle that is large enough to use as a tote carry. The following are excellent candidates, especially when paired with these preppy collegiate looks!!

Photos from the September Issue of Interview

I leave for my Eastern European vacation in 2 days, so hopefully there is a Bree store that will have a full vachetta rucksack somewhere. I am excited for some time off. Travel is like a reset button for me, filled with endless inspiration and food!!

- jerome

Moroccan Magic

Bronze Long Tee by Rick Owens, Safari Jacket by Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane, Khakis by J.Crew, Vintage Boots and Gifted Jewels
My good friend Brian celebrated his 25th birthday this week at a local restaurant called Marrakesh. The exterior is quite captivating, but I never thought to actually go in because it is in the Tenderloin and I don't want to die I am a scaredy-cat. The theme for our outfits was supposed to be "ETHNIC" so walking in the TL dressed like this and carrying a handbag was already drawing unwanted attention. Only Brian would have chosen the perfect theme and setting to try out such an "exotic" place. Inside the haunt (or at least in our VIP section!) were walls of Persian decoration and elaborate fixtures, both serving as the perfect setting for the delicious Moroccan food. The cocktail of the night was the Moroccan Magic: basically their version of a Long Island Iced- Tea, and a sure bet to get your buzz going quick. The hookah and belly dancers made it even more authentic, though the magic show was kind of random. It was a splendid evening I wish could have been documented, but I unfortunately left my camera at home (SOMEONE PLEASE GET ME A POINT AND SHOOT BECAUSE I SIMPLY CANNOT HAUL AROUND MY SLR TO EVERY DINNER I GO TO).

Anyway, this was my ensemble for the evening. Somehow I decided I was an explorer who liked ethnic jewelry, which is kind of true considering I live vicariously through my parents and their travels. My mother brought me back jewelry from Mexico, Israel, and Egypt, as per my request; but man do they have an eye!

Coincidentally, I ran into my gaysian the next day and discussed how much the monochromatic scale of camel, cream, and bone was trickling down into stores. I love this color palette, and we can all thank Phoebe Philo, Celine, and Jesus for the resurgence.

- jerome

Unzip Him to Start

Those Europeans, they can sex up anything... including Wranglers? When I think of Wrangler I think of unflattering jeans worn by WAL-MART victims and the like. Unless you have some sort of cowboy or denim fetish you probably wont find Wranglers sexy, much less consider them one of your favorite denim brands. But there is a definite re-branding initiative taking place in the European market. The emphasis placed on heritage and quality products is a large trend this season that proves beneficial to a brand like Wrangler. The vintage American angle works, but I think that Levi's has alreadyly dominated the U.S. market (and certainly a good portion of the rest of the world). Launching this collection in Europe is a smart move for Wrangler. The U.S. clothing collections and website remain conservative and practical in design, while the European product and marketing are modern and provocative.


The Wrangler Blue Bell Jeans Collection website showcases the collection by allowing users to control a model with the click or drag of the mouse: Undress him, tug him back and forth, send him flying across the screen. If you cannot appreciate ripping the shirt off of male models, then get into the fresh concept and design of the website that was featured as The Favorite Website Awards site of the month. This is an excellent, memorable way to see how the clothes move in real life from all angles. The Blue Bell Jeans Collection consists of quality classics including shirts, jackets, and of course denim. Check out the collection on the European website.

- jerome

Eyes On Your Own Paper

Left: Burberry Prorsum, Right: TOPMAN
Is it me or are these two collections awfully similar? Christopher Bailey has done some amazing things with the Burberry brand, making it highly sought after and the jewel of London Fashion Week (equally causing a stir for menswear during Milan Fashion Week). It is no surprise that the Burberry Prorsum runway collections would be translated into fast fashion powerhouses like Zara and H&M, but to show a very similar collection on the catwalk within the same season is, um, interesting.

Top: Burberry Prorsum Fall 2010, Below: TOPMAN Fall 2010


TOPMAN and TOPSHOP are probably the best at manufacturing the season's hottest runway trends at a lower price point. Furthermore, they edit key pieces to be street "wearable." But see how all the drama is lost when put side-by-side. The volume in the Burberry Prorsum aviator jackets is gone in the TOPMAN version, leaving a large patch of shearling that seems a bit arbitrary. It is more affordable, and although it tries, it is not the same thing.

Runway doppelgangers are not unusual, especially since fashion is constantly changing and influenced by the world we live in. But this particular instance is a little obvious because the Burberry Prorsum show was broadcast live and streaming in Milan before the TOPMAN show in London a month later (both are British labels). To watch the show live, alter the designs, and create samples to send down the runway within a month is not a far fetched idea. Maybe it was a coincidence between two brands that come from the same place, but suspicion erupts when one is a hot name in the industry with a heritage dating back to 1856, and the other is famous for creating affordable knock-offs.

Bloggers and editors tweet looks from the front row to followers around the globe in real time... the ones who aren't already watching it themselves live online. This season Gucci, Jil Sander, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, and other major houses streamed their Fall 2010 collections; Burberry did it in 3-D, taking online presentation to a new level. Fashion shows are easily accessed by the general public, no longer limited to runway pictures. I cannot remember (I think it was Scott Schuman) who said that pretty soon fashion shows will be like events where seating is purchased and the front row goes to the highest bidder. Everyone has access to the show through the Internet anyway, so the live version might become for those who can afford to attend. Since fashion editors cannot always make it to all of the shows, live streams in high definition save time and money and offer a solution to being at two places at once - or at least every show that day. While I am infinitely grateful that I can watch the shows live, I hope that the looks on the runway do not begin to lose their unique aesthetics.

- jerome

All Over the Place, Part 1

You may have come across me saying that my style is evolving, changing, or something along those lines. It may go back and forth from draped to tailored and black to bright, but I want to assure everyone I am anything but confused! There are just so many options out there that, right now, I am trying to find a balance. As a pack-rat who has gone through many fashion phases, my wardrobe has come to be pretty eclectic. Here are some Fall collections that speak to me.

Lou Dalton is a master at infusing classics with an unsuspected twist. I find one off-beat design element that ties together an otherwise "traditional" collection. Dalton presented equestrian dandies and distressed hunters last A/W by using large cable knits and knee patches (the inner seams seen on riding breeches). This season, he crafted his take on the urban Scotsman. I am in love with the full tartan suit and half kilts, an idea that Marc Jacobs also utilized this Fall.

More plaid, but more punk. J.W. Anderson's tailoring updates alternative style. The hardware is chunkier than normal, as seen in the choker belt and Caravan Boots. The boots and OTHER EXQUISITE accessories remind me of Japanese street style, kind of like a quirkier Ricardo Tisci. Pay attention to the colors and layers of the shoes and bags, and how it all comes together with each look:

The Soar Fall 2010 collection strikes me as the male answer to Phoebe Philo's collection for Celine. The layers and proportions are modern, without the use of too much color. I like the combination of different textures with leather, a large trend for the upcoming Fall season.

Daniel Palillo is known for his graphics and outrageous proportions. The Fall collection retains the oversized silhouette, but it is smaller than usual for this designer. The irony is that the season calls for a top heavy look, and Palillo answers by shrinking his already trademarked volumes. But what I am really invested in are the prints. How amazing is that C-3PO/Skull shirt?!!

- jerome

A Quickie With Some Men

I have been having a hectic week. Trying to keep up with the shows (DO NOT GET ME STARTED ON WOMENSWEAR) has been pretty tough. I continue to toy with the idea of reviewing the females too, but I think I might do some touch points on the off season. I follow the women's shows just as closely as the men's, but there are many more of them in such a short amount of time. I like tuning in on menswear because it helps me evolve/learn about my own style. Besides, I promised myself I would cut down on buying women's clothes since my current obsession with handbags is expen$ive enough... and they almost always have my size ;)

Here are some more of my favorite looks for the Fall 2010 season:

Call me sentimental, but I am so smitten with this SK8R BOY looking collection from WOOD WOOD. The simple silhouettes are revamped, like the longer shirts and cropped pants for example. Everything is tied together with backpacks, beanies, and other boy-ish things that I was fond of so long ago. The updated look is much better because of the cut and the prints, but I think everyone is thankful there are no ball-chain-necklaces.

I am going out on a limb here and say that Marc Jacobs is the KING of "WHY DO I WANT TO WEAR THAT?!" contemporary sportswear. I am wowed each season with something so hideous I actually raise my eyebrows, and by the same token, I am computing and strategizing, figuring out just how the hell I am going to afford the look that just came after the total 'Fashion WTF' (this includes all of the brands he oversees: Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc, and Louis Vuitton). There is something offbeat about Fall 2010 that caught my attention. The belted jackets, cross body bags, and olive tones were on trend. However, the occasional wide leg trouser added the right amount of surprise. In a sea of top heavy menswear shows, Marc Jacobs knows how to stay in touch with the season's message while keeping you interested by utilizing unique ideas.

B Store is going to offer you lifestyle next season. With tops, bottoms, footwear, and outerwear to fit any occasion, the Fall collection is the perfect medley of basics for the young and modern male. I am living for the belted pajama shirt under the peaked lapel blazer, atop a tapered trouser tucked into a mid-calf boot. The silhouette is nothing new, but using long-johns as an alternative to skinny jeans is refreshing. This collection still maintains the emphasis of a relaxed and top heavy silhouette while excluding overly-sized/warm jackets, which (as a Californian) earns my respect and gratitude.

- jerome

More From Fashion Month

Fashion month continues as my wishlist continues to grow. I love what I am seeing: more futuristic henchmen and avant garde street wear. There are clothes that could easily fit the pages of both comics and fashion magazines. These looks are both conceptual and wearable. On the street the pieces may be worn differently to achieve a variety of moods. But certain statement garments are show stoppers not to be worn by the timid.

Todd Lynn's use of furs and skins is fresh, sexy, and luxurious. I cringe when sneakers are worn with the wrong jacket, and you would think that fur just doesn't go with a rubber sole. This combination of fur, leather, and high-er tops is the street-ready, masculine option for those who want that unisexual androgyny while wearing clothes tailored for the male physique. Lynn has received a lot of attention after Carine Roitfeld wore one of his furs. And if you were wondering who Janet Jackson is wearing in her videos, now you know.

I do not know much about John Rocha except for the fact that he is 1) Asian 2) based in Ireland and 3) shows in London. Now as a gay Filipino, I am not so sure I would assimilate so easily in Ireland (but a vacation there is still on my things to do before I die). Respect. Anyway, I was interested in this collection because of the raw edges. The looks seemed to be unfinished; not in the Demeulemeester way (though it has the same effect), but in this haphazard-yet-refined styling. I like the different textures of black that are layered together. It is as if these men are wearing rugs and upholstery in a very chic way. Jethro was an excellent casting choice.


Henrik Vibskov always has an interesting take on shape and color. This season, he uses color blocking and a mixture of prints to express his point of view. I am not entirely sure of the purpose of the helmets and spectacles but it is clear that he focused on how the clothes will be worn in real life. These pieces look a bit loud as ensembles, but as separates they may be the special something you need to pull everything together. If kilts aren't your thing then a jacket or cardigan with the right print can set the tone for your look this season. And remember that even in Copenhagen, the belted waist reigns for Fall.

- jerome

Fall Trends Fall Into Place

Key trends for menswear are solidified as the shows continue in New York. Like the collections in Milan and Paris, there is a strong focus on outerwear and the top heavy silhouette this season. The denim and chambray shirt is also popular, along with a consistent use of green hues and mixed prints. Concepts are pushed to extremities of either completely avant garde or authentically heritage.


Using proportion and color, Timo Weiland produces an ideal Fall collection. I am a big fan of the variety in outerwear: double breasted double collar/belted trench coats, camel top coats, and chunky knits to name a few. The shades of green are particularly beautiful as they are paired with navy, black, and all the other staples of the modern wardrobe.

All hail Rad Hourani, king of unisexual design. This collection was the perfect example of forward thinking and futurism. Apparently, clothing in the future isn't gender specific. I have been wearing a lot of color lately, but the drapey/strappy/androgynous/all-black wardrobe I have accumulated is begging for more moments in the form of Rad Hourani. These clothes are innovative in design and function, as many of the pieces are known to transform. (Note: Aside from Givenchy, I think this is one of the most diverse model castings this season. Bravo!)

Richard Chai captured my heart a few seasons ago with his unique but trendy but wearable streetwear. His print choice (and their combination) is perfect for the season, and as always, the styling is impeccable. Styling is an asset to the Chai's presentation, but the clothes can speak for themselves. The top-heavy silhouette is demonstrated here flawlessly. Just look at how the jackets fall at the perfect place on the body. The proportions!!

Chambray shirts, classic outerwear, trousers and caps. I'm intrigued. Let's just say I have a thing for this milk man, lumberjack, Colonel Sanders hybrid of a man. The Billy Reid show was set against an appropriate Autumn atmosphere. I need to find some woods to wander through. This color palette of timeless neautrals is a great option for Fall.

Diesel has always been the exception to the rule; the over-sexed, leathery, gay/guido exception. This season's Black Gold collection was a happy medium. On trend in color and silhouette, this is another collection I am interested in for its variety. I think I am going to need a leather top for Fall (and thank goodness it doesn't have to be at the Margiela price point). Also, more olive, chambray/denim shirts, boots, and belts... TREND. But being the exception, Diesel shows some skin in Autumn.

T.Bro is like that eccentric and fabulous old woman at all the fashion events who knows everyone but somehow remains mysterious. What a fantastic showing of lavish apparel! One day I will grow the balls to wear these looks in their entirety, but until then I will pick and choose individual pieces... starting with that black and white printed sweater. I love the red, white, and blue stripe on the placket. This is another brilliant interpretation of modern tailoring. With each look, there was an experiment in proportion. Thom Browne makes clothes I WANT TO LIVE IN.

- jerome

New York Moments

New York Fashion Week is in full swing, and boy have there been some moments to remember! Menswear is looking fantastic, and it appears that all of the trends of the season are translating to American design. Ivy-league school boys, military brats, and new-age travelers are sent down the runways. Heritage is big this season. Looking to the past for inspiration is one of the best (looking) ways to move forward.

Phillip Lim knows how to suck my wallet dry. This recent Fall collection looks like the uniforms of the students who would attend the Academy for Inglorious Basterds. The olive and camel colors are my favorites this season, and the hint of navy seals the deal for me. The belted waist is transformed into a harness/holster look that I MUST HAVE. Also, words cannot express how much I adore the Varsity Motorcycle Trench in black.

Robert Geller surprised me this season with the simple looks, and semi-healthy looking models. I was going to pigeon-hole this designer as someone who made beautifully tailored pieces for boys who look dead. Past collections have been dark and complex, but this Fall is simply chic. Statement pieces like the Mongolian fur muffler (thing?) was dramatic because of its volume, not because of gaudiness. Sweet derby hats!

Patrik Ervell (San Francisco native!!) is famous for his use of technical fabrics. He pushes the limit again, creating rainwear made entirely of rubber that is bonded together, producing a seamless, see-through, and practical garment. This fabric was sometimes draped over the side of the shoulder in such a romantic way, which is a testament to Ervell's skill (can you imagine, draping rubber?!). Although it is a bit too condom-ish for my taste, Anna Wintour is most definitely a fan of the rubber. Those pieces aside, the Chinese-military-inspired collection featured many of my favorite things for this Fall: monochromatic ensembles, belted looks, and a chunky shoe. What's not to love?

I am still on the fence with this Rag & Bone collection. Maybe it's because I cannot picture myself in beanies. I am a fan of fairisle, and mixing prints is key this coming Fall, so I am on board with that. But camouflage?! The layered lengths are also very smart, but strip it down and you are left with expensive flannel night gowns. I wonder what will be edited for stores. Aside from my beanie envy, I like the color palette. It looks like a good collection to grab key pieces from since Rag & Bone produces well-made clothes.

- jerome

Fall Will Be a Cinch!

There are many different things I am excited about for the Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 season. Various trends have emerged from the runway shows, so I have started forecasting what I think will be on the streets (or at the very least, what I will be wearing). It appears that the top heavy silhouette is here to stay, but a prominent variation on the look comes in the form of belted ensembles. Cinched waists have been shown on many a runway so far, from Milan to Stockholm. Belted coats look romantic and refined, adding sophistication to outerwear pieces. I am not sure if it will be a full fledged trend, but it is a classic look that the mainstream male audience will be exposed to in the following seasons.

1. A belted look spotted by Tommy Ton for GQ.com 2. Lanvin 3. Ann Demeulemeester 4. Smalto 5. Wooyoungmi 6. Viktor & Rolf
Other trends for A/W include mid-calf combat boots and shearling. And though my excitement for Spring and Summer continues to grow, the Fall shows keep my interest in warmer clothes because San Francisco is still in a cold spell. There is rain and fog, sun and wind. I am keeping my collars high and my radar on Fall until the season changes.


BLOG UPDATE: Check out the side bar on the right to see my running wishlist. Actually, I need those things.

- jerome

New for Spring

T-Shirt and Shorts by Cheap Monday, Leather Bomber Jacket and Shoes by 3.1 Phillip Lim, PS1 Bag by Proenza Schouler
I know much attention is being paid to the Fall shows, as it should be. But I cannot help but be excited for Spring! Believe me when I say I cannot wait to get back into shorts, especially with new looks like these. Here are some looks from the Cheap Monday and 3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2010 Lookbooks. The colors, proportions, and cuts are exactly what I am going for... and DAMN THEY WOULD LOOK GOOD WITH A PS1!!


Lavender, Olive, Navy, and Jean are my new colors for Spring. Bring on the shorts, the sandals, and hopefully the sea. The only plus side to waiting is having time to save up for all the goodies I cannot live without this season!!

- jerome

Henchmen, After Them!

Why the video game and science fiction industry do not collaborate with fashion designers more often is beyond me. Miuccia Prada designed costumes for the anime film Appleseed Ex Machina, but that is the closest thing so far. Imagine the beautiful interpretations of super-hero costumes that could be seen on screen instead of the sartorial train wrecks seen on the big-screen. Some of the most forward designers already incorporate the futuristic, meta-human aesthetic into their designs. I think the major barrier for collaboration might be the hot babes and penis envy. Get over it already, and please put Ryan Reynolds in some skin-tight Versace!!

Futuristic grunge comes to mind with this collection. It is in someways awkward, just like in the 1990's when rock music fans would wear baggy pants. That should never ever happen again. It takes a certain type of person to wear giulianoFujiwara for sure, but I would hope that in a post-apocalyptic world, gangs would wear stuff like this. Picture them with bats, smashing in windshields. I wouldn't mind a little action with these guys. I have faith in the cropped jacket for men. One day.

The Fall 2010 Alexander McQueen menswear show was the perfect compliment to the womenswear collection. The color palette is different but divine, soft yet masculine. McQueen uses tons of prints again, creating the same sense of species as his female sea creatures. I would love to see these guys in the Matrix rather than those crazy albinos with cyber-dreads. I am a major fan of prints this season, and thank goodness this collection offers such a selection! I was secretly hoping for the men's version of the armadillo/crab claw shoe, but I guess stirrup pants and printed ankle boots is a sufficient consolation prize.


I think all henchmen, since they always run in packs, should be in skin tight leather with slicked back hair. Who wants to see sloppy joes running around in ill-fitting suits? I want to see these Versace studs parkour! Donatella's latest collection for Versace Uomo screams hot henchmen who can high-kick. Somehow it is all futuristic, even without the TRON lights that frame the runway. The shapes and tailoring all contribute to the semi-super-human look. I am on the fence about the white hot prints, but the Euro-clubber inside of me is begging to have one of those jumpers!

- jerome

Rival Schools

As Milan Fashion Week continues, the prep school theme seems to have blanketed a good portion of the major collections. Whether or not I am seeing school-boys in these designs because it is an actual trend or because of my own fetish (probably the latter), it is fascinating to think about how these designers would interpret school uniforms. Can you IMAGINE?! I went to a Catholic, all-boy, private college preparatory, but we didn't have uniforms and I still feel a little cheated. Which school are you going to apply to this fall?

Salvatore Ferragamo's sophisticated look comes from both design and fabrication. Such luxurious wools and skins are used to create the perfect top coats and riding boots. Definitely seniors majoring in post, post, post modern literature. The belted waists add shape to the top heavy silhouette. I find the duffel coat particularly charming, like it would go with everything; that is exactly what I will be telling myself when I buy it.

Nothing out of the ordinary from Neil Barrett... another forward and wearable collection! Once an avid, all-black enthusiast myself, Neil Barrett was my go-to for black, sleeveless tuxedo shirts and the like. This season, he plays with color blocking and just the right amount of embellishment. I am a fan of the half-colored jackets but I am not sure I myself would wear it, especially with all the color I have been wearing lately. But this is definitely where the goth kids go, and where the military trend appears again. Also, this womenswear look is totally do-able, and I demand a male version of that peep-toe boot.

If Frankie Morello outfitted the kids from this school, it would probably be a public school, Breakfast Club type situation. I like that this collection was so varied. In this selection alone we have the nerd, the goth, the rebel, and the jock. I usually shy away from these kinds of clothes, but after looking it over a couple of times I realized they are workable as separates. Unlike DSQUARED or D&G or whatever other ALL CAPS, gaudy-ass, ultra-Italian, Jersey Shore douche brand, I don't see a lot of logo. And I love a good man-skirt.

I am excited for the rest of the shows. Watch closely to see if the same school aesthetic pop's up anywhere else!

- jerome