February 14, 2010

New York Moments

New York Fashion Week is in full swing, and boy have there been some moments to remember! Menswear is looking fantastic, and it appears that all of the trends of the season are translating to American design. Ivy-league school boys, military brats, and new-age travelers are sent down the runways. Heritage is big this season. Looking to the past for inspiration is one of the best (looking) ways to move forward.

Phillip Lim knows how to suck my wallet dry. This recent Fall collection looks like the uniforms of the students who would attend the Academy for Inglorious Basterds. The olive and camel colors are my favorites this season, and the hint of navy seals the deal for me. The belted waist is transformed into a harness/holster look that I MUST HAVE. Also, words cannot express how much I adore the Varsity Motorcycle Trench in black.

Robert Geller surprised me this season with the simple looks, and semi-healthy looking models. I was going to pigeon-hole this designer as someone who made beautifully tailored pieces for boys who look dead. Past collections have been dark and complex, but this Fall is simply chic. Statement pieces like the Mongolian fur muffler (thing?) was dramatic because of its volume, not because of gaudiness. Sweet derby hats!

Patrik Ervell (San Francisco native!!) is famous for his use of technical fabrics. He pushes the limit again, creating rainwear made entirely of rubber that is bonded together, producing a seamless, see-through, and practical garment. This fabric was sometimes draped over the side of the shoulder in such a romantic way, which is a testament to Ervell's skill (can you imagine, draping rubber?!). Although it is a bit too condom-ish for my taste, Anna Wintour is most definitely a fan of the rubber. Those pieces aside, the Chinese-military-inspired collection featured many of my favorite things for this Fall: monochromatic ensembles, belted looks, and a chunky shoe. What's not to love?

I am still on the fence with this Rag & Bone collection. Maybe it's because I cannot picture myself in beanies. I am a fan of fairisle, and mixing prints is key this coming Fall, so I am on board with that. But camouflage?! The layered lengths are also very smart, but strip it down and you are left with expensive flannel night gowns. I wonder what will be edited for stores. Aside from my beanie envy, I like the color palette. It looks like a good collection to grab key pieces from since Rag & Bone produces well-made clothes.

- jerome

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