January 23, 2011

Man Peplums in Paris

Louis Vuitton A/W 2011

I always get a feeling of satisfaction and validation whenever my current style mood is in tune with some of my favorite designers. As we have seen in Milan and Paris, menswear is back in menswear! Even when pushing the envelope and walking the line between androgyny and drag, there is an unmistakable masculine attitude to the latest collections. There is a special place in my heart for Milano, but my soul belongs to the shows in Paris. And God bless them, the designers are doing peplums!! (Kind of!!)

2010 was the year of Louis Vuitton for me. I was quite taken to the womens Spring show and the message of finding beauty within the mix of city and nature. San Francisco is really a perfect example of this juxtaposition. This latest menswear collection was very modern. I love the small clutches, portfolios, and other leather goods balancing out the hard, structured ready to wear. The exaggerated lengths on the blazer silhouettes were a pleasant surprise, as were the pops of color. But of course my favorite looks were the belted blazers that created the peplum effect!!

Ann Demeulemeester can suit up a storm. Each collection really showcases technique by mixing draped garments with tailored looks. I am not sure I quite understand the weaves the models had this season. That being said OMFG I NEED TO GET DOWN WITH SOME DECONSTRUCTED CUMMERBUNDS AND WAISTCOATS. See how these unbuttoned layers of fabric create a skirted silhouette.

One other show I had my eye on in Paris was 3.1 Phillip Lim. It was the designer's first show in Paris for the brand, and I believe the collection is worthy showcasing at PFW. But Phillip Lim has always been a checking account drainer for me. The prints and baseball jackets really caught my eye. Bi-material garments might be my new lust in 2011. I can relate to Lim's use of color in that I like to dress with a neutral palette and use color or print as a statement. Aaaand check out that skirt action with the layering!

- jerome

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