America's Next Top Menswear Designer

I'm not sure if any of you followed GQ Magazine's search for the Best New Menswear Designers in America, but watch this video and you will be caught up to speed. The winner of the 2010 GQ/CFDA Best New Menswear Designer in America Award received a $50,000 cash prize and a limited edition Levi's collaboration collection for Bloomingdale's. Richard Chai and Billy Reid were two participating designers in the competition who showed some of my favorite collections this past A/W season (click here here to review).



Though they cater to different audiences, the tailoring, fabrics, and color stories of all these brands are linked by some form of American sentiment, which is necessary in the search for the next best American designer. When I say "American" I mean more than just the references to military looks. There are also nods to both American sportswear and the industrial revolution. Watching this video is very insightful. I think it shows what the fashion industry is looking for in the menswear market, which is proving to be more relevant to a majority of men rather than just those interested in style.

First, the brothers slash bears "best friends" duo Doug and Ben Burkman of Burkman Bros are the token rookies, presenting a collection that looks the youngest and the most homolicious of the lot. It may seem like a lot of hype for a company that has been live for a mere 18 months, but their charm and flamboyant traditionalism (think DSquared with the volume turned down and minus the logomania) earned them a nomination. Then there is Vincent Flumiani's by-the-book presentation which was very conventional, but effective. Designing for the ivy-league-traveler character he invented really gives his work a direction, allowing him to brand Caufield Preparatory in a consistent and salable way. Eunice Lee's label UN+IS is also an example of how different designer menswear is from womenswear. In my opinion, designing for men has to be more personal because men shop differently; ironically Eunice is a female, yet she offers variety because she understands her target market. I am glad she has set out to do more than just update the polo. The menswear designer for J.Crew, Frank Muytjens, was also nominated. I am always a little surprised when bigger designers - or designers backed by big names - are nominated for awards that come with a hefty prize. Acknowledgment is important, but aid should go to those who really need it. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely LOVE J.Crew right now, but Mr. Muytjens is already backed by J.Crew money. The judging panel also made a great point that Muytjens is a great stylist, which is an asset to each of these selected designers. As long as I have been following him, I have seen that styling amplifies each collection for Richard Chai. He designs clothing with functional and exquisite fabrics, with silhouettes that are interesting but accessible. I find that this particular collection demonstrates perfect proportion and print mixing.



The winner of the 2010 GQ/CFDA Best New Menswear Designer in America Award is Billy Reid. I think he was deserving for multiple reasons: 1)he presented a strong, cohesive collection 2) his designs are on trend and 3) the quality and authenticity behind his work screams Made in the U.S.A.

This may be old news, but seeing this behind the scenes footage struck a cord with me. Hearing the discussion from a panel of editorial and creative heavyweights inspires me... especially when most professional opinions seen in mainstream media are from bitchy women and overly-tanned queens sitting on the side of a runway no one cares about.


- jerome

Target Acquired: Louis Vuitton Sofia Coppola Bag

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME. I remember the first time I held the Sofia Coppola Bag; I was shopping in Hong Kong and was immediately drawn to the deep red of the SC bag's Jasper calf leather. The buttery, supple skin was nothing like I had ever felt. Thus, my real obsession for bags began.

Flash forward almost a year and I had a job, saved enough for 2 collection bags, and still the SC bag was out of my budget. Months of research and visits proved to me that the bag was next level. It is so exclusive, only a handful of stores in the US are even allowed to sell the bag (go SF!!) and it comes with a book that describes the collaboration. I had plenty of time to think about which one I would own. The Cobalt is a rich shade of blue and the Asphalt suede sings of luxury, but the Jasper is a red that embodies love at first sight. From the first time I held it, my decision was already made. To my surprise, luck, and gratitude, my mother had developed her ALLASIANSLOVELOUISVUITTON bag gene around the same time I did. She began to shop at LV all by herself, and knew that I was a little insane but had some sympathy for my obsession. Thus, my parents granted me a large birthday wish and the SC bag in Jasper became mine.

I began using the SC after the rain let up. It fits my daily essentials and whatever else I may need to bring from time to time. The handles are silky smooth to the touch, allowing for unbelievable comfort when holding it. The shoulder strap is an added bonus and convenience since I love the classic style and look of top handles anyway. Asphalt suede lines the inside of the bag with a patch and zippered pocket for organization. A covered lock and key bell accent the bag, adding security and subtle refinement reserved for those with a discerning eye. This is the only Louis Vuitton item I own that is made in Italy (everything else is made in France). In other less eloquent words, THIS BAG IS THE SHIT.


Thank you all for your votes!! I love and appreciate the others, but the Jasper is just my soul mate. It is the PERFECT day bag just as Sofia Coppola intended, and the only way to top it would be with a Birkin. Except for the PS1 I think I can cool it with the bags now, specifically Louis Vuitton. A full report of my birthday loot will come soon, when they arrive in the mail!! Besides, it is still technically birthday month, and summer sales have begun :)


- jerome

The Obsession Continues

It is safe to say that I got almost everything I wanted from Louis Vuitton in SS10; so much so that people probably think I'm a total F.O.B. when really the design of Monogram Eden and the shape of the bags really spoke to me this season. But as I have written before, the Eden flat bag continues to haunt me. Fashion editor Paolo Turina reminds me why I fell in love with color and patterns again, and why I simply cannot let go of this obsession. What? Too gay? Ishi photographs Bruna Tenorio in a stunning editorial for Amica.

Photos from Fashion Gone Rogue


- jerome

Intermission

It is my birthday week, meaning a crap load of shopping and dinners. This explains the lack of updates. But here are a few things I stumbled upon the past few days. I promise to give you a full report of my birthday loot. For now, peep this:

Gilly photo from ILVOELV

- jerome

Moroccan Magic

Bronze Long Tee by Rick Owens, Safari Jacket by Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane, Khakis by J.Crew, Vintage Boots and Gifted Jewels
My good friend Brian celebrated his 25th birthday this week at a local restaurant called Marrakesh. The exterior is quite captivating, but I never thought to actually go in because it is in the Tenderloin and I don't want to die I am a scaredy-cat. The theme for our outfits was supposed to be "ETHNIC" so walking in the TL dressed like this and carrying a handbag was already drawing unwanted attention. Only Brian would have chosen the perfect theme and setting to try out such an "exotic" place. Inside the haunt (or at least in our VIP section!) were walls of Persian decoration and elaborate fixtures, both serving as the perfect setting for the delicious Moroccan food. The cocktail of the night was the Moroccan Magic: basically their version of a Long Island Iced- Tea, and a sure bet to get your buzz going quick. The hookah and belly dancers made it even more authentic, though the magic show was kind of random. It was a splendid evening I wish could have been documented, but I unfortunately left my camera at home (SOMEONE PLEASE GET ME A POINT AND SHOOT BECAUSE I SIMPLY CANNOT HAUL AROUND MY SLR TO EVERY DINNER I GO TO).

Anyway, this was my ensemble for the evening. Somehow I decided I was an explorer who liked ethnic jewelry, which is kind of true considering I live vicariously through my parents and their travels. My mother brought me back jewelry from Mexico, Israel, and Egypt, as per my request; but man do they have an eye!

Coincidentally, I ran into my gaysian the next day and discussed how much the monochromatic scale of camel, cream, and bone was trickling down into stores. I love this color palette, and we can all thank Phoebe Philo, Celine, and Jesus for the resurgence.

- jerome

Covert Operations

Blazer by Zara, Tee by Dries Van Noten, Khakis by J.Crew, Brooch by H&M, Vintage Boots, Bag by Louis Vuitton
The internal struggle continues with choosing which Louis Vuitton Sofia Coppola Bag I should pick for my birthday. The Suede asphalt has been taken out of the running because I am not Kate Moss and I don't have Kate Moss money it is impractical. The price point for the SC Bag ups the ante, making owning both next to impossible. From the beginning, it was always the Jasper; and if I have learned anything from trying to decide between two colors of the same limited edition bag, I should trust my instincts. Still, it doesn't hurt to ask.

I brought in my gaysian and my geisha to give their opinions while experiencing the bags in question. This is input I can respect and trust. The strict no photo policy at LV stores turned this into a covert operation, but my friend's sidekick allows for inconspicuous photo taking. So here are the two darlings in all their glory: Cobalt v. Jasper

The judges unanimously agreed that the Jasper is the color to go for. First, the Jasper color is a unique shade of red that will age beautifully. The Cobalt is really gorgeous, but the twilight shade of blue is so dark that it really looks black most of the time. There is no point in getting the color even I cannot really appreciate all the time. This also highlights the next argument: there will be other black and blue bags.


Jasper wins in the color and longevity categories for its uniqueness and classic/timeless nature. Both bags have an element of wearability. The Cobalt is such an obvious pick because of my deep love for navy, but when putting it next to my entire wardrobe, it seems to be too "matchy matchy." The Jasper can add interest to any outfit without overpowering because it is not such a shocking red.

I believe I have made a pretty solid decision in choosing the Jasper, but I am still taking votes. Once again, I will only count votes made after seeing the bags in person. My entire family still has to weigh in, so anything can happen. Both colors are on hold for me until I make my decision.

Vote NOW!

- jerome

Rock the Vote

It's that time of the month again, and trust me when I say my "time of the month" is getting really expensive. Financial Emotional ups and downs, and this time it is my birthday. We all know I need a little help when it comes to making decisions. I can barely decide on what to eat for dinner, let alone which bag to choose when offered a variety of color ways. So again, with the Louis Vuitton (oh, jerome!). I will keep this short and sweet. The SC Bag is pretty much the Birkin of LV bags, and if you cannot get passed price tags for handbags, then I cannot help you, nor do I want your advice. So which one should I get, the Jasper calf leather, the Asphalt suede, or the cobalt calf leather? The decision must be made on the 24th of May, so comment or email me with your vote!!



- jerome