Sheer Necessity

Mesh Polo, Gauntlet Ring and Biker Sandals by Burberry Prorsum, Khakis by J.Crew, Bracelet by Hermés

The first time I laid eyes on the Burberry Prorsum SS12 mesh polo, I knew it had to be mine. It is just enough GAY classic-meets-different to belong in my collection. The price tag was pretty steep so I had to let fate decide - wait until sale and see if it survives. Flash forward to sale season and it was SOLD OUT in my size in SF. But I am not a quitter. There was hope in a size larger, so I went for it anyway. Yes, the original fit me like a dream, but in retrospect, I am happy with the size up because I will inevitably need to wear something under the piece... though I don't plan to in New York! The color is a lovely pale, grayish olive that plays tricks in different lighting. I sometimes have this aching regret in my heart about not getting my size, but wearing something under the size up justifies my decision.

It is important to develop instincts about buying certain designer pieces. I try to weigh the pros and cons; the price and value versus the quality and mileage a piece has. This has saved me many paychecks... All of which I am going to spend in New York. So much to do before my trip! And it turns out, I will be working on an exciting project while I am there :)


- jerome

Target Acquired: Louis Vuitton X Scott Campbell Stole in Bleu

Denim Jacket by H&M, Tee by Adam Kimmel, Jeans by J.Crew, Shoes by Prada, Bracelets by Hermés, Stole by Louis Vuitton
Runway pieces are fairly hard to come by. I am fortunate enough to live in San Francisco, a city not heavily populated by the fashion obsessed with large flagship stores offering runway collections from many major fashion houses. My sales associates at each store are at the ready after each show I view during fashion week. Building relationships with the people at the luxury stores in your area will help you secure hot items, just like the Prada Espadrilles. My sales person at Louis Vuitton came through, and now the Louis Vuitton X Scott Campbell stole is mine!


When I saw the Spring 2011 shows I knew that it was an expensive season. Thank goodness this is the final piece on my wishlist I will acquire for Spring before my birthday!. Louis Vuitton's menswear doesn't usually catch my attention. My affection for the house stems from their heritage and history with luggage, handbags, and accessories. During the Spring 2011 show, I took notice of the tattoos on the models and the graphic designs on the accessories. The stoles were particularly beautiful and versatile and I imagined layering the piece as on the runway. The color and hand of the marvelous accessory is very bewitching in person. The all-cotton stole drapes beautifully and is lighter than air. My Birkin fund has taken a massive hit this season but I think runway pieces are worth it, if not purely for exclusivity. There is a second color - Khaki - that still may be available at the SF store, but you're looking at 1 of 15 pieces in the country. This is my second Louis Vuitton Tattoo stole, and let me tell you I am a big fan!


Watch this video on the Louis Vuitton and Scott Campbell collaboration. You can see Campbell inking the drawings found on the stole. The design is based on Chinese astrology with a subtle LV monogram. His tattoo style is quite beautiful and flowing, perfect for the collection. The second video in this series showcases the design and realization for his custom tattoo kit by Louis Vuitton. I hope that one day I can get my own quality custom piece made from the house!


And while we are on the subject of fashion and tattoos, focus your attention exhibits A and B. On the left we have a model sporting Scott Campbell's (washable) tattoo design for Louis Vuitton's Spring 2011 menswear runway show. On the right we have an anonymous-yet-unfortunately-infamous LV monogram sleeve tattoo that has absolutely no context or personality. I mean, let's just hope this guy is a part of the LVMH family (judging by the chin strap, it doesn't seem likely). I may have a clear addiction to designer clothing but because I ain't ballin' out of control, I have to be careful with my luxury purchase choices. The same caution should be exercised to the 100th degree when getting a new tattoo. Perhaps it makes him happy; I certainly don't have the balls to do it. Bold move, sir.


- jerome

Lunares

Polo and socks by Comme des Garçons X H&M, Khakis by J.Crew, Shoes by Prada SS2011
So the sun is back out! On this particular day I wasn't ready for how hot it really was going to get, but you can never go wrong with polka-dots. I ventured out to the De Young Museum here in San Francisco for the Balenciaga and Spain exhibit. It was beautiful and wonderfully curated with an impressive selection of garments throughout Cristobal Balenciaga's career. The opening night a few weeks ago brought curator Hamish Bowles, actors Gwyneth Paltrow, Orlando Bloom, Miranda Kerr, and even Anna Wintour herself to the city by the bay. AND NOT ONE OF THEM CALLED ME. More on the exhibit later. Fun fact I learned from the exhibit: "Lunares" means polka dots in Spanish.

Selma Blair stopped by my work while I was there but no one bothered to tell me. I also found out Blake Lively was in town this past month for WonderCon and I could pass out from missing her. I am normally not so celebrity crazy, but I MEAAAAAN. Two of my favorites. C'mon?!!

- jerome

Can't Get You Out of My Head

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2011 Shoes
A few days ago a friend of mine posted a picture of his new Phillip Lim shoes. Gasping with envy I made it my mission to track down a pair, but due to my ignorance I failed to realize what season the shoe was from. I mean, how am I supposed to get a pair of RUNWAY SAMPLES?? Good thing this spring, Lim has brought back the tassel motif. The shape of these boots are perfect. My favorites are the monk strap shoes. Looks like I have to keep eating cup-of-noodles for dinner my work cut out for me.


- jerome

Star Shirts - The Obsession Continues...

Capsule Collection Images from The Fashion Spot
I am not so sure where my recent obsession with stars comes from. My black and white button down and Louis Vuitton scarf piece tell me that I find star shapes to be an attractive graphic element. This capsule collection from Christoper Kane might be taking things to another level. Behold this lovely resort 2011 collection including shocking nebula prints. These cosmic graphics are images taken by the Hubble telescope, blown up to create all-over printed garments as seen in the womenswear collection.

Photos from Interview Mag

Kane is known for these large prints after his success with the Gorilla and Floral series. I myself find nebulae to be fascinating and beautiful and I cannot wait for these babies to drop. See how layering the prints creates movement and interest to an already obvious statement. Dramatic visuals next to simple saturated garments has a great affect when broken up with the skin showing on the neck, arms, or legs. Bravo!!

Even though this is a resort collection, I am pretty sure these clothes would work for A/W because of the color palette. The nebula prints showcase a gorgeous spectrum of jewel tones which I find romantic and always appropriate for the colder months. Another mystery. Perhaps my affinity for this palette stems from the following music video seen at least once a month on YouTube during my childhood.



Sup, BAMBI??!


- jerome

Spring Forward

Mjölk Spring Summer 2011

Photos from The Fashionisto
Mjölk's Spring collection is truly an inspiration for styling. It's a little bit hip, a lotta bit Euro, and a great example of New York street. I love the prints and these are pretty much all the colors I've been wearing lately. And SOCKS!! The top heavy silhouette may not be the newest trend on the blog, but I am glad that there are no skinny jeans. The man jegging should only be worn by emo kids hipsters butt rockers subculture stereotypes. A slim jean can really flatter, but skinny jeans really have no place in my wardrobe anymore.

- jerome

VALEXTRA, VALEXTRA - Read All About It!

Valextra is a fine example of why Italians are famous for flawless leather work. The brand produces iconic bags using only innovative design to effectively stand out in a sea of logos. I often find myself staring at Valextra's offerings during my regular Barney's browsing. Sometimes we forget about just appreciating excellent craftsmanship in a handbag. Valextra has a wide range of highly sought after leather goods to suit any person's needs, with the added advantage of emblem/logo-free design to stand the test of time. They do not make "it" bags; for some, they make THE bags. And all of this, perfect for the resurgence of minimalist accessorizing.

Naturally, when a brand produces classic after classic, similarities are bound to errupt with other fashion super-powers. For example, take a look at these bags from Valextra's Spring/Summer 2011 Collection:

left: Valextra SS2011, right: Louis Vuitton, Hermès, and Cèline

See how Valextra's pink frame clutch looks like the frame Speedy from Louis Vuitton. The closure and carry of Valextra's bucket bag is also very close to the So Kelly bag from Hermès. And while the bowling bag is a universal handbag shape, see how the last bag resembles both the speedy and the new Kelly bag Phoebe Philo's luggage tote for Cèline.

Valextra is easily missed at the handbag line up because there is not necessarily a logo or prestige pull. However, there is a heritage and aesthetic from this brand that makes it the perfect option for that customer who loves the look of the current "it" bag, but would like a more low-key piece to translate from season to season. It will be made just as well (if not better) with high quality materials, it is free from heavy branding, and it costs just the same.

So don't pass up Valextra. I know it sounds like the name of some villain in a sci-fi movie, but really it is the label of her fierce handbag.

- jerome

Stuff I Wish Guys Could Wear

Guys who wear women's clothing are usually/apparently/eventually gay. And if you think those guys who wear ladies' clothing "because Miuccia is a genius" are straight because you hooked-up with them... chances are I know a few men who have too. I may be generalizing here, but only from personal experience. I am obviously not a homophobe and I fully support self expression, but c'mon ladies, YOU ARE PROBABLY NOT LUCKY ENOUGH TO BE DATING PELAYO DIAZ.

For years I have shopped for both menswear and womenswear. It was never my intention to do drag, but at one time it was impossible to find jeans tight enough or jersey that draped properly in the men's section. One of my New Year's resolutions was to stop shopping in the female section (except for handbags and accessories of course) because I find that I end up selling back most of the womenswear I buy. This might have something to do with realizing my body type is not as androgynous as I would like - or maybe tastes are changing. I have actually held to this resolution all year, but every now and then there will be a revelation that tempts me. For example: Céline Spring/Summer 2011.

HAIL PHOEBE, FULL OF GRACE

Phoebe Philo captured my heart years ago with her work at Chloé and returns to rock my world by reinventing minimalism at Céline. For SS2011 Philo uses color print blocking in a variety of looks. This design element, paired with modern silhouettes and crafty textures, all make my heart flutter. Sure, the leather tunic may not be so masculine, but I swear I could really fall in love with those printed-track-suit-things. Don't even get me started on the bags. I normally do not cover womenswear on this blog even though I follow it closely. Philo's collection was just too good not to write about!! I hope you have all enjoyed the shows!!


- jerome

H&M x LANVIN

Photo: Lanvin's Alber Elbaz and Menswear Creative Director Lucas Ossendrijver (center) for VMAN 12 Designer Portraits


News UPDATE: Did @BryanBoy let the cat out of the bag? A few days ago he tweeted (and I paraphrase), "One of the benefit of having a Swedish boyfriend is having him first in line for the queue for H&M x Lanvin." My jaw dropped when I read this and retwweted, only before I could blog about it, the tweet was deleted. BryanBoy had visited with H&M's creative team at their headquarters, so it was a viable source. I was a little confused when the promotional video for the next collaboration was released. The NYT Cut Blog revealed Tomas Mair of Bottega Veneta was the voice in the clip, but my suspicions were squashed when both the blog and WWD verified the voice belonged to Alber Elbaz.

OMFG THIS IS GOING TO BE EPIC. It has been a while since I have lined up for something at H&M. They truly need this collaboration. The quality of their merchandise has taken a severe turn for the worse, but bringing in a collaboration with a highly sought after brand that no one can afford could be a huge, necessary success. I hope they are doing footwear too!! FINGERS CROSSED. Most of the energy will most likely be focused on womenswear which doesn't really affect me, but if it is anything like Comme or V&R, heaven help my checking account!!

- jerome

Prepping for Spring

KEEPIN' IT REAL KHAKI
Shirt by Prada, Khakis by J.Crew, Belt by Burberry Prorsum, Desert Boots by Louis Vuitton

This whole barely-any-sunlight thing is getting old. Will spring ever come?? I am taking advantage of every ray of light I see, faking a reason to wear my spring wardrobe. Blue, olive, tan, white, and black pretty much sum up my current color palette.

- jerome

Gray Days in June Gloom

I finally start appreciating color, and then San Francisco decides to revert to darkness. The constant cloudiness has me reaching for the black once more. Oddly enough, there were plenty of A/W styles for spring which might prove useful next year because winter likes to stick around longer in the city by the bay. Here are some looks from Spring/Summer 2001 that matches my mood now; and while we are on the subject, I am still in dire need of the elusive PS1 in either smoke, navy, or pre-fall print. Seriously, is there PS1 to fit every mood?

THIS GOES WITH THAT

SS2011 Looks from top to bottom: Tim Hamilton, ACNE, Burberry Prorsum

California dreamin' is for San Franciscans too. I am aching for some sunlight and pray that I get some before fall arrives. Seriously, I need more weather to justify new additions to my wardrobe!


- jerome

Paris Fashion Week

Stop. Pause. Record. Fast Forward. Rewind.

As 2010 continues to unfold (and prove to be busy as hell) I find myself making appointments and working night and day. It is hard to keep up with the schizophrenia; one moment the day moves like molasses, and the other it flashes so fast that fashion week is over. Here is a quick recap of my favorite looks from Paris. Some highlights: prints, blazers, shorts, sandals, waistlines, drawstrings, and BAGS.





The city of lights has me enlightened. The cold weather continues to plague San Francisco and I wish every night for a day that I can wear shorts. But of course, the sun came back for SF Pride, as the gays would never allow a parade without topless men. Sale season continues and my closet continues to grow. TRUST. So I apologize for neglecting you, blog, but I promise to fill you with stories, news, and some new inventory soon.

P.S. I got glasses :)


- jerome

MFW Round Off

SHEER. PRINT. ETHNIC. SHIRT. SANDAL.

The volume of shirting in my closet has grown exponentially within the past 6 months. It seems that my taste has turned toward a good collar and barrel cuff, leaving the straps and draped neck lines of my recent past behind. It has been interesting mixing the new with the old, but there are endless layering possibilities. This is why I love these collections. Sheer tuxedo shirts and tunics atop over-seized tops. And a special applause to Sarah Burton for doing Alexander McQueen justice. What a smart mix of relaxed and fitted, modern and classic clothing. And my search for the perfect ethnic prints continues. And excuse me, Mr. D’Amato? Who told you short shorts and billowing outerwear looked awesome together? Can I high five them??


Next stop, Paris. J'Adore.


- jerome

Color Block Tango

Milan Fashion Week has come to a close. One of my favorite trends that has emerged for Spring 2011 is color blocking. Raf did wonders for Jil Sander, and the following shows struck major chords with me too.

The whole reason I got into Giuliano Fujiwara was my obsession with his open-toe boots. Little did I know the style, and so much more with embellished gladiator sandals, would be a full-fledged trend - but that is another post. Check out the use of color, shape, and texture in this collection. I like the geometry of these designs, as well as the variety. Here is a collection that delivers pants, shorts, tops, boots, shoes, sandals, and more in colorways that coordinate. Bravo.

Marni makes magic with simple shapes that are classic yet incredibly modern thanks to the clever use of color. This neo-preppy style really speaks to my current wardrobe mood. Add some leather goods and gladiators and you have some serious summer style.

There is not much to say about this collection, other than it is a home run with me. Basic, logo-less, cropped, and colored looks are the stuff dreams are made of. Thank you, Marc Jacobs :)

- jerome

Who Wears Short Shorts?

More from Milan. I am a bit underwhelmed with this season, to be honest. There are definitely certain moments in the Spring shows I am loving but not too many collections have me swooning. Luckily people aesthetic geniuses like Miuccia exist.

Every season, I anxiously await to see what Miuccia Prada has envisioned for menswear. Much like a Magic Eye, her designs may take a while to see but with time and determination you're rewarded with a bigger picture. For Spring, Prada salutes the everyday working man. Utilitarian fabrics give life to new, simple silhouettes and are refreshed with a smart use of color and fashion forward accessories - a house staple. In a world bound by skinny pants, Miuccia embellishes on the idea to reveal a unique vision that is practical and reminiscent of uniforms. Notice the proportions and the shape the shorts create. Also, I find the layers and textures are interesting.

I am always in love the Bottega Venetta's colors. Herr Tomas Maier uses a romantic pallet of deep jewel tones and nudes to create a light and wearable collection. This is clothing that focuses on movement and utility, all for the seemingly "Transcontinental" man. And as always, the accessories are divine. The rolled up shorts are still masculine, and perfect for spring when paired with the outerwear.


Um, yeah, about that... WTF? Is it me or is this collection a bit strange for Emporio Armani? I felt the brand become edgier over time through color and tailoring, but never with cuts like this. All I can really see is more influence from the dark designers... This is like Gareth, Raf, Rick, and Ricardo for people with muscles. Seriously now, notice the print, the cut, the lapel and the leggings!


More to come. And since I didn't say it before -

RIP TOM NICON


- jerome

Men and Milano

Pitti Uomo is now in full swing and the Spring 2011 Menswear shows have begun. There is a special place in my heart for Milano that always aches this time of year; I spent a lot of time in that city in the past, but now I guess I have to pull my hair out from the intense jealousy of live vicariously through top tier bloggers tweeting from the front row. Here are some highlights thus far.

Jil Sander was the first show that I saw from this season. Between work and family engagements I was worried that I would not have time to keep up, but thank goodness I underestimated how far modern technology and the daily commute could take me. Raf Simons' designs sound off spring with a smart use of color and print. See how the color plays an important role in proportion. This is a collection that allows the body conscious to wear print and color again! And yeah, yeah, "Florals? For Spring? GROUND BREAKING." I know, but the fluorescent all-over print and blown up petals are a fresh take on the cliché. Bravo for another great use of bold graphics!

There isn't too much that I would wear from SS2011 Versace, but Donatella delivered a group of rockabilly boys that stripped down to their birthday suits before our very eyes. That may not be so uncommon for the house of Versace, but I was not prepared to see Jethro Cave in a Speedo - I'm not sure how I feel about that yet. This was NOT the show to turn around Versace's fiscal woes but the fringe, suits, and pointed shoes might be a step in the right direction toward clothing for men who don't peacock.

Christopher Bailey's genius lies in his ability to infuse fashion forward designs with Burberry's English heritage. Season after season, the Burberry Prorsum shows have been a delightful parade of knights, aviators, and military men. The spring show streamed this morning and I was surprised to see a new inspiration: Punk. Well... technically it was "Biker" but the leathers, studs, and chains are reminiscent of British punk, which is arguably a large piece of English culture. This was a courageous and unexpected direction that Bailey went with in menswear but looking at individual pieces I don't think it was the most original. The leathers and color palette were annoyingly similar to Hedi Slimane's collection for Dior Homme SS2007. Perhaps the neutrals and earth tones were a safe move after the daring pastels seen in the previous year. The perforated tops and plunging necklines remind me of Prada last spring. I thought the similarities ended there, but then I saw Givenchy in the gladiator sandals and Balmain in the biker pants. And studs? Again?? Don't get me wrong, I adore the sandals amongst other things from this show, and will probably be fighting tooth and nail to obtain them. Thanks to Burberry's "Runway to Reality" initiative, instant gratification is actually possible. I am not accusing any sort of copying or influence, either. There are obvious parallels here that catch my attention, but when combined, they create a wonderfully sound look for spring. It was a solid collection with exquisite accessories, superb styling, and a marvelous example of Bailey's ability to mix the past and present. I have seen and worn it before, yes, but I will also buy and wear it again!! Here is to another year of gladiator sandals, leather jackets, and studs trenches!!


- jerome