January 16, 2010

Autumn Armies

The Autumn/Winter 2010 Men's Fashion Shows kicked off today in Milan, Italy. Sadly I was asleep for the Dolce & Gabbana show. Waking up early for work was made easy by the fact that the Burberry Prorsum show was being streamed live. To my dismay, the "start time" was really introductory footage and I had to leave before I could watch the show live. GOD BLESS THE INTERNET.

Other than the utilization of technology, the major trend this season so far is TAILORED MILITIA. Already an influential and popular trend in the past, designers have drawn inspiration from combat. Tailoring is an added twist, bringing a romantic touch to a hard, masculine look. Here are some highlights from day one:

Burberry's Christopher Bailey presented a runway collection inspired from the brand's war-time/exploration heritage. I am in love with the muted jewel tones, variety in textures, and each ensemble's proportions. Muted jewel tones and mid-calf boots - get into it (again).

Army men in their skivvies; how homoerotic and deliciously Dolce & Gabbana. Somewhere, someone is making a Bruno reference. Longjohns and suiting, two opposites in a man's wardrobe, worked well together in the same way that underwear as outerwear works for (some) womenswear collections. The looks were sent down the runway in groups, which is nontraditional yet quite impactful.

Hello there, futuristic biker who fences! The armor-like cuts and splashes of fur and metallics brought asymmetry to today's tailored presentations. Though the color palette was limited, I liked the fencing jackets and combat boots. There are many excellent separates to choose from that I am sure will translate well on the street, especially if you are Japanese. There is something about Belgian design that drives them Asians crazy.

That is all for now. "What? No report on Jil Sander?!" Yes, I love Raf Simons. I believe choosing him to be Jil Sander's new champion was a smart move, especially considering Raf's minimalist and tailoring genius. This season's collection was just not one of my favorites. I loved the sheer jumper and knitted sweater, but I still have not fully embraced the large shapes put onto jackets and coats. They look rather bulky, and I am not sure if they are all that wearable.

More as fashion week continues (and maybe a report on Jil Sander if you're still raw about it). Images from GQ, WWD, and The Fashionisto.

- jerome

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