January 27, 2010

The Shape of Things to Come

Having a job doesn't really leave me much time to keep up with blogs, fashion shows, or the Kardasians, so lets not talk about the couture shows just yet. Here are the last of my mini-reviews for the Fall 2010 menswear shows from Paris. Some highs and some lows (though the following isn't listed in any particular order). I am a little relieved Paris is coming to a close because now I can focus on preparing for the many hits my Birkin fund is going to take.

I found out about Ute Ploier a few years ago when I was really into large costume jewelry. I remember seeing clusters of red, plastic crosses dripping from the clavicles of these long haired models and thought to myself, "I BACK IT FULLY." I do not see the same use of iconography here, but I still like the mohair cardigans and wrap shirts that create a casual silhouette. Again, I am still attracted to that draped leather look, which confuses me every morning when I want to wear a blazer or trench. I usually end up pairing draped leather with a nice button up, mixing my two opposing tastes.

When I was going through this show, my partner peeked over my shoulder and said something along the lines of, "Those are some serious scientists from the future." There is something clinical about the color palette: nude, black, scrubs green, and orange (not pictured). I am not so crazy about the swimmer caps, but the cream Fez is pretty sweet. More interesting shapes from this forward house. Obviously it is not for everyone, but I love how the shapes of the clothing accent the shape of the body.

I was not so crazy about the Jil Sander show (please don't throw garbage at me), but this is the Raf Simons I know and love. I have a feeling some might feel the opposite, but I feel this collection sings a lot more. The two-tone-trench was one of my favorite looks because I love the deconstructed element, and I am a sucker for alliteration. Raf has a talent for color blocking as we have seen in the past, and I love what the body-con tunics (which MUST be layered) look like under a blazer. I cannot wait to feel the fabrics he chose for these designs.

DO IT TO ME EVERY TIME. I am obsessed with Mihara Yasuhiro. This collection had everything I adore from this season including a top-heavy silhouette, romantic prints, belted looks, denim shirts, and outerwear with a statement. The combination of modern and classic is really catching my eye this year. The only problem for me now is availability. CHARGE SEND.

I will take one of each, please. The half cape double breasted coat is divine, while aqua suits and amethyst trousers glimmer as they move under lights. Paul Smith is growing on me.

All I have to say is color contrast trench coats and leather bags and accessories. You had me at Look 1.

Dunhill gives us more from the university trend this season with blazers and crests, ties and cardigans, and wool coats. The flask and cigar holder utility belt looks good, but I wonder if it would get annoying to actually walk around with it on. Tucking your trouser cuffs into your socks/spats/leg warmers is looking to be a trend, but boots in general are here to stay.


Selecting but a few looks to blog that represented what I love most about this Lanvin collection was extremely difficult. The ensembles seemed natural and approachable, though the looks were flawlessly styled and screamed luxury. The footwear is fantastic as well, but remember that with Lucas Ossendrijver you can always expect must-have shoes.

Photos from GQ and The Fashionisto

- jerome

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