January 21, 2010

Homme Boys

The menswear shows are off to quite the start in Paris! I can hardly keep up with all of the looks. The sheer number of shows today was a treat to click through, but reviews will take some time. Here are some of my favorite highlights from today's shows.

Surprisingly, Gabriel Aubry presented an almost practical collection for Louis Vuitton. The clothes and accessories were masculine. I like the combination of gray and brown and the fact that even though the collection follows this season's top-heavy silhouette, it was still sharp and distinctly Louis Vuitton (less Marc).

Dries Van Noten, as always, delivers his own vision of what the modern suit should be. Coincidentally, the scarves and colors were reminiscent of Balenciaga womenswear from Fall 2007, but even those looks were masculine. But maybe it is time for men to adopt a look once donned by women. These are some of my favorite pieces, but the rest of the collection is filled with brilliant moments using print and tailoring.

Juun J. first caught my eye with his avant garde take on the trench coat. He uses layering and draping to create such complete looks. I am calling them "Harajuku Cowboys." Note the footwear: brilliant gladiators that will surely be popping up all over the blogosphere.

There is something endearing about Gaspard Yurkievich's latest presentation at Paris fashion week. It reminded me a lot of one Mr. Ervell, but with more tailored looks. He deconstructs the blazer, only to put it back together in such a graphic way. Also, more school boys! Suddenly I need an umpire's vest.

There is something about a hot guy bleeding in the face that gets my full attention. Jean Paul Gaultier's menswear collection was like a yearbook out of an incredibly chic boxing academy. I particularly like his use of color here, and the hoods under the topcoats for the boxing robe effect.

Julius is your one stop shopping for draped leathers, knits, and any other looks to emphasize androgyny. They always show the most amazing shoes (the sandals from Spring!!) and I am in need of the thigh-high boots. The monochromatic color palette is to be expected, but that is only because Julius is worn by boys who wear BLACK.

Swishy. This collection is pretty effeminate, but I think there are certain pieces that are worth mentioning. I am new to Alexis Mabille, but I like the concept of a single/double breasted sports coat! There were staple, menswear pieces in the show, but add Chippendales boys and berets, and it was a little too much for my taste.

BTW: If I post some looks here, it does not necessarily mean I love the entire collection. For example, with Prada, those particular looks I posted fit into a trend I am analyzing or a look I want to emulate. That doesn't mean I was into the rest of the trainwreck I was seeing. I am sure we have all encountered collections where we love certain pieces, but were so confused with the sea of crap it was presented with.

- jerome

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